Roam Guide / Telluride, Colorado
Heather Corndorf is the founder of mXe (pronounced moxie) Movement Studio and currently lives in Minneapolis, MN with her husband, son, daughter and two dogs. She is a loving mom, a diabetic and a red lipstick junkie. It is virtually impossible to embarrass her. Just try. Seriously. When she’s not running the mXe empire, she’s freestyle rapping in her kitchen, dancing like nobody’s watching, or howling at the moon. And if you're in Minneapolis, and you cross paths she WILL hug you.
Where?
Telluride, Colorado
Telluride is appealing because a little off the grid and has a relaxed vibe. You shouldn't feel like you have to be fancy, and it's generally less commercialized than other CO vacation destinations.
What is the best time of year to travel to Telluride?
Year-round. You get a different appreciation for the mountain in each season. If you want to ski for less look at April.
“Winter feels like you're in an isolated and charming snow globe, and summer feels like you're on an epic life adventure.”
How do we get there?
It used to be that if you didn’t have a private jet, you’d need to fly into Denver and jump on a commuter to Montrose. After which, you still needed to drive 45 minutes to Telluride. But now days, United and American fly direct from cities like Chicago and New York, and Delta from Atlanta and Salt Lake city. Word is, Southwest Airlines and JetBlue have plans to introduce direct flights into the exclusive Montrose Airport (MTJ) as well. Either way, it's worth every extra minute to get there.
Rtip: Telluride Express is a great transportation option if you don’t want to rent a car. The drivers are vetted Colorado locals and they run a reliable service.
Where should we stay?
We are lucky to have our own home on the mountain. There are two central areas in Telluride: Mountain Village and the town of Telluride. Mountain Village is where many of the condo rentals and luxury resorts (like The Fairmont or The Auberge Resort’s Madeline Hotel) are located. If you stay here, I'd recommend The Peaks Resort & Spa which offers rooms & suites but also cabin rentals through their “See Forever Village.” Both have access to an incredible indoor/outdoor connecting pool where you can swim even when it’s snowing. If you are looking for a charming smaller property then I suggest the Inn at Lost Creek. If you are stying with a group, check out the 3 & 4 bedroom ski-in ski out residences offered at Lumiere Hotel.
During the Summer, it might be best to stay in Telluride town, where I suggest the New Sheridan Hotel or Element 52. The Gondola in Telluride is the first and only free public transportation of its kind in the US. They offer free rides between Mountain Village and the town of Telluride, early morning until midnight and it takes less than 15 minutes. Super easy and a beautiful ride.
Rtip: There is 8k ft less in altitude in the town of Telluride than there is in Mountain Village. Just something to think about in determining accommodations if you are prone to altitude sickness.
What should we do?
Since we are gearing up for ski season I’m sharing all the details for what to do in Telluride in the winter.
We ski Telluride which is located in Mountain Village, CO adjacent to the town of Telluride. The Trail Map does a good job of helping you understand the layout and proximity to town. The ski resort is unique because 60% of the terrain is dedicated to beginner and intermediate skiers/snowboarders. If you find yourself on a trail that's too challenging, you can access at least one intermediate run off of every lift on the mountain. The lines are minimal and the chairlifts are so peaceful with breathtaking views. The ski school is absolutely amazing. You can do a half-day or full day, groups, or privates, snowboarding or skiing. *They also have a fun childcare for kids activities all day and sometimes they organize kids-night-out activities so parents can have a night alone. It’s worth mentioning that the ski resort also offers guided snow biking tours and lessons.
Rtip: If you like long, scenic intermediate runs stick to the Plunge or Revelation Lifts or check out this round up from Ski.com.
Ice skating is the quintessential winter activity and there are two options to choose from — the Hockey grade rink in Telluride Town Park and the newly opened rink at Hotel Madeline in Mountain Village. There are skate rentals available directly at the hotel or at the Telluride Nordic center, which also rents sleds and snowshoes.
Rtip: While watching the kids ice skate, think about enjoying a Bloody Mary and splitting an appetizer at The Black Iron Kitchen & Bar at Hotel Madeline.
Other winter adventures like ice climbing and snow shoeing can be arranged through San Juan Adventures. Or take your own and snow shoe to Bridal Veil Falls, Cornet Falls or the Valley Floor. Another activity to consider is to take a guided snowmobiling trip through Telluride Outside. Or take a drive and warm up at a hot springs like Orvis, or Dunton *day passes at Dunton currently on hold.
There is so much to do in the Summer as well,
One of my favorite things to do is visit the Farmer's Market in town. All the goods are produced within a 100 miles of Telluride. It's open every Friday, June to October.
If you're staying a week or longer, I suggest looking into some of the awesome camps available. The Ah Haa School for the Arts offers a variety of workshops for artists of all ages and skill level. They have great skate parks in Telluride, and my son took skateboarding lessons through The Drop Boardshop and Telluride Skate Camp. Another enrichment opportunity is through the Pinhead Institute's Summer STEM program.
We hiked quite a bit, and I have a couple favorites you can access right from town. We love the Jud Wiebe trail, which is a moderate hike through groves of Aspen trees with panoramic views of Telluride. We often take the kids on the Bear Creek Trail which is an easier hike that leads along the cliffs to the falls at Box Canyon. Smugglers Brewpub is located at the base of the trail and is a great place to enjoy a post hike refreshment. If you are up for it, go see the tallest free falling waterfall in CO via the Bridal Veil Falls Trail. Undoubtedly you'll want to sit under the falls, cool down and take in its splendor.
“It's exhilarating to see my kids accomplish a more a difficult hike.”
Another great family activity is tubing down the San Miguel River. You can rent tubes at Bootdoctors and walk straight to the river. Float the 3 mile stretch to Lawson Hills and hop on the free public bus back to town, or hike back on the river trail. Don't worry, the rental company is okay with you deflating your tube on the return.
Our favorite adventure was camping on Lizard Head Mountain. We hired a guide through San Juan Outdoor Adventures and they completely outfitted us for a night on the summit. They provided equipment, made a fire, prepared food, and took us on a hike. Perfect for people traveling without their camping gear.
“Our kids learned to use Old Man's Beard as fire tinder. They were fascinated.”
Where did you enjoy good food on your trip?
Go to the Grilled Cheese Cart, parked in front of Elks Park and order the bacon, apple brie. You won't be sorry. If you want a good meatball sandwich (or a donut) try Baked in Telluride, where they also offer gluten-free bread. If you are in the mood for Mexican, head to Taco Del Gnar (so good you can’t imagine) or La Cocina De Luz (and don't forget to order a Margarita). Finally, grab a healthy breakfast or delicious sandwich at The Butcher and Baker Cafe. They make a great cup of joe and a wonderful frittata.
“It's the best grilled cheese in the world. Diki puts butter, cheese and lots of f'ing love into her sandwiches.”
Particularly nice in the Winter are the dining options on and at the base of the mountain. First you can take the gondola up to Allred’s. It’s on the fancy side but the views up there by the fire can’t be beat. At the base of chair 8 you’ll find Oak, a local favorite, where you can finish your day with a simple po’ boy sandwich or fish tacos. At the top of the Polar Queen Express is Bon Vivant, which is exclusively outdoor, so pick a nice day. It’s just fabulous; think decadent French soups and handcrafted spiked warmups. Finally, there is nothing better after a day in the cold than a hot bowl of Pho from the Flora Dora Saloon in Telluride Town.
Rtip: If your kids are dying for pizza look no further than Brown Dog, voted #1 in the 2015 World Championship in Italy. Hard to argue with that.
“Apre-ski we love grabbing crepes from Bertrand Marchal's Place des Crepes cart and sitting outside by the fire pits at the base of the mountain”
Where can we do a little shopping?
We aren't in Telluride for the shopping, but there are a number of great places to find unique goods. I like T.Karn Imports for artisan throws, journals and jewelry. I enjoy Mixx (next to the furniture gallery) for art and jewelry, and Two Skirts or Scarpe for women's clothing and accessories.
“Scarpe is where I bought my most favorite cowboy hat. Check it out.”
What should we pack for the trip?
Take the obvious things based on the weather. It's a casual town where you can wear jeans everywhere, or the same clothes every day. You can also purchase anything you forget. In the summer I bring my aforementioned cowboy hat, a flannel layer, a bikini (because it's easier to pee) and some sunglasses. Winter has us packing ski layers and warm socks. Leave the electronics at home and visit Between the Covers bookstore or the amazing public library instead.
“My husband and I challenge each other to see who can pack the least amount in a backpack for a week in Telluride.”
Tell us something we don't know?
The town of Telluride is situated at 8,750 feet. Mountain Village is even higher with accommodations between 9,400-10,000 feet. To break it down in simple terms, there is almost 30% less oxygen in the air in Telluride than at sea level. Speaking of getting high, CO is one of the eleven US states where recreational marijuana is legal, and you will find no less than 5 pot shops in town.
What is the one can't miss item on your itinerary?
Spend a day in town and talk to people. It's so interesting to hear how people drop everything to move to Telluride. Learn about their lifestyle. It really makes you slow down and think about your priorities.
“You know how you move to Telluride? You come up with a couple million or work your butt off as a barista.”