Ready and Roam / Sonoma County, California
While each of our guides aims to offer simple advice in a format that's easy to navigate and share, we recognize that not all travel enthusiasts can translate that information into an actionable plan. We also understand that not everyone has the bandwidth to take on the details of planning a trip. If you would like to purchase a turnkey itinerary that outlines a long weekend in California Wine Country, click here.
Plan
Best: May - October. If you'd like to experience harvest, go in the Fall. While there are four commercial airlines that fly regularly into Sonoma County's airport (STS), most people fly into SFO and rent a car. Clearly there is opportunity to drink and drive in wine country, but please don't. Schedule time to eat, share tastings, pack snacks, or just hire a car. Even if in some locations you struggle with cell reception, wineries will gladly call you an Uber. Wine county was one of the first regions in the country to embrace the service. Just don't expect them to be knowledgeable on wineries or traffic. There are several transportation services we recommend if you want someone to do the driving for you, but it's nice to have the flexibility of a car if you are staying in an Airbnb and My Napa Driver will drive your car, and your itinerary. If you are someone who is interested in biking through wine country, consider booking a guided tour instead of going it alone. Just keep in mind the biking route can be costly and won't include tastings. I personally prefer the one offered in Sonoma because it takes you off road through the wine vines.
RTip: We like to arrive in Sonoma County via the Golden Gate Bridge. Two of our favorite stops on the way include the Buena Vista in San Francisco for an Irish Coffee, or Lagunitas for a beer in Petaluma. On our return trip, we often stop at Cavallo Point for breakfast on the historic patio at Murry Circle. It's a lovely view and a nice way to end your visit.
Learn
While the length of the harvest and it's terminology varies among winemakers, "crush" is typically understood as time in which the grapes are picked and smashed. Although, it's quite a bit more complicated than my visions of Lucielle Ball jumping around barefoot in a wine barrel would suggest. The vines in California change color mid to late Summer as the grapes ripen and their sugar content rises. Grape farmers are savvy scientists, and the time at which they decide to begin "crush" is often difficult to pinpoint or predict. You can expect however with some level of confidence that the last weeks of September and the first three of October, you will be able to experience first hand this process at various wineries in the region. Check out the Sonoma Crush Event as well as Somona Grape Camp to really get the most out of harvest.
RTip: Paso Robles Wine Country near Big Sur, also does a fabulous job celebrating and cultivating this unique season.
Stay
Vintners Inn / reservations
This smaller hotel hideaway in the Russian River Valley is the definition of centrally located Sonoma Valley accomodations. Make a point to eat here, especially if you are staying overnight. We suggest an upstairs balcony room overlooking the gorgeous courtyards and acres of lush wine vines. The Front Room Bar & Lounge is exactly that, a cozy old-school lounge. They offer outdoor bocce and a newly erected on-site spa, which is never be a bad thing.
Fairmont Sonoma Mission Inn / reservations
What I love about this hotel isn't even mentioned on the The Fairmont's website. The historic California mission style hotel dates back to the 1920's and is located perfectly on highway 12 between both Sonoma and Napa counties. It’s near one of CA's first and oldest wineries, The Buena Vista. I adore the charming European-style rooms in the historic part of the property, but plan accordingly as there are no elevators for hauling up luggage (or cases of wine;) This resort is not only affordable, but it offers a world class spa with unique access to the natural mineral hot springs of the area. They even provide free wine tastings in the lobby after the wineries have closed for the day.
Farmhouse Inn / reservations
If you are looking to celebrate (or splurge) as a couple, the Farmhouse Inn is the place to check in for privacy, luxury and relaxation. They have incredible award winning food, a world class spa, peaceful grounds, sommelier-led wine tastings and super comfortable accommodations. You can literally come to the Farmhouse Inn for a taste of Sonoma and not leave the property. It’s not however, the place you want to be if you’re plans include all day off-site tastings. If you decide to stay here, then stay here.
Twelve Oaks / reservations through vrbo
If you are staying with a group, this place is outstanding! It accommodates up to 10, each couple with their own bedroom and bath. The property itself is stunning inside and out. The outdoors are expansive including a bocce ball court, pool house, air stream tequila bar, a hot tub and beautiful gardens. You may want to just grab a few bottles of wine and hang out. We certainly did.
Rtip: If you take our advice and stay in, we suggest you have dinner catered and also delivered from Cochon Volant BBQ.
The Warrington House / reservations on airbnb
If you are a smaller group, look at this rustic hillside 3 bedroom charmer. It’s sits on 8 acres of land and the outdoor spaces are magic. One of the bedrooms is actually located in a “hobbit house” separated from the main house by gardens. The multiple fireplaces offer a lovely place to unwind with a book and a glass of wine as the property is well suited for those not interested in a packed schedule of wine tasting.
Farmhouse Oasis / reservations though airbnb
This stunning airbnb rental near Santa Rosa is so incredible that even if you are traveling with friends, you'll want to scoop this place up for yourself. It only accommodates four (2 privately) but there are so many rental options in Sonoma this one is worth highlighting. The area is known for it's Pinots, and this property is only 5 minutes from the charming village of Sebastopol and the 12 acre open air market that is The Barlow (written up below)
RTip: For a little less expected option in this area, consider Luxury Airstream Camping in the heart of Sonoma's Russian River Valley.
Explore
While we've hit a record of 11 wineries in a single day, nowadays we suggest 3-4 to get the most out of your experience. Usually one or two appointments is appropriate, either to bookend your day or plan around meals. This suggestion allows for both flexibility and spontaneity. We've learned to start the day with bubbles and and if possible, the furthest from where we plan to finish our afternoon. Most wineries are open daily from around 10-4, and roughly half require appointments. For the purposes of this post we are going to feature five well-loved Sonoma wineries for you to begin your planning. All that said, there are no mistakes in wine country. Be sure to explore our custom google map to visually map out your own adventure.
Bubbles
Like I said, we always start with bubbles. In south Sonoma county we begin the day sitting outside at Gloria Ferrer. North in Healdsburg, the J. Vineyard's bubble room is lovely and the grounds are perfect for a picnic. In the middle, especially if you are staying in the Farmhouse Oasis, Iron Horse Vineyards offers tastings in a rustic barn attached to the working winery that overlooks the estate vineyards.
Gary Farrell Winery / website
As a former San Francisco resident I've visited countless wineries and Gary Farrell was not on my list until I moved to Minneapolis and met Leslee Miller of Sip Better. Needless to say, it's been on my itinerary ever since. The patio alone, once discovered, will elevate this winery to the top of your list. If you can, book the blind tasting and I promise you won't be disappointed. Reservations are required.
Chalk Hill Estate Vineyards / website
The Chalk Hill setting is so magical and the foundation of this winery isn't just in grape growing but in culinary agricultural. For more than a century, their land has been an important producer of gourmet produce, organic meats, poultry and wine. Because of this, the culinary tour and tasting is the best choice. That said, they are open 10-5 without reservations, so any tasting will do. For all the chardonnay lovers out there, the shop page has 4 categories: Red Wine, White Wine, All Wine and Chardonnay. Need I say more?
Benovia Winery / website
Totally off the beaten path this winery, known or its Chardonnay and Pinot Nior, is quite possibly perfect. Affordable and really special, this appointment only experience is top notch. The staff is approachable, humble and knowledgeable and the wine is excellent. If you are going to join a Sonoma wine club, this is it. If you plan to visit Benovia, slot it into the first half of your day.
Preston Farm & Winery / website
"Ours is a shared community of wine lovers, story tellers, family memories and treasured moments. A community of wine. Come taste our estate wines, homegrown olive oil, just-baked bread, fresh and pickled vegetables." I grabbed this from their website because I couldn't say it better myself. This place is low key and great for a picnic, which we suggest you grab from the nearby Jimtown Store or Diavola Pizzaria & Salumeria. Life is simple here, and you won't need an appointment unless you want a farm tour.
Matanzas Creek Winery / website
Bennett Valley existed for many years in quiet obscurity, and that's perhaps why this winery still feels like a secret. I rarely drink Sauvignon Blanc but it's the best wine for oysters (and you know how much we love those at R&R), so Matanzas creek has a great pairing in that regard. The lavender that grows here is quite spectacular and although it peaks in June you can enjoy a tasting here anytime without a reservation. Another great spot for a picnic and a little bocce.
RTip: If you are curious about the devastating Glass Fire that hit the area in September 2020, this article simply lists those affected. If your interest is in the first round of fires that hit in October of 2017, the Reno Gazette does a good job of identifying those 25 wineries across Napa and Sonoma. Click here to read the article and explore the interactive map.
Shop
The Barlow / website
Among the small town charm of Sebastopol, you'll find several converted warehouses full of artisanal goods from over 40 local makers and vendors. Be careful this place is expansive and you could spend the whole day if you're not careful. Favorites to check out include all the "cute" things at Little Four Store, as well as Tamarind for their unique and comfortable dresses. This is also the place to find the best in local breweries, cideries and distilleries. Cheese mongers, bakers and creameries round out the array of specialties cuisine available onsite.
The Church Mouse / website
While they have a location downtown in Sonoma's historic plaza, we prefer the thrift center location on Agua Caliente Rd. Walking distance for those staying at Twelve Oaks, this gem is filled with unique coffee table books, glassware, housewares, platters and art.
Devour
Willi's Seafood & Raw Bar / website
While it's normal for me to be on the hunt for good oysters, that's not my favorite thing on this menu. One of the best things I ever ate was at Willi's. I know it's bold statement, but the melted cheese and chorizo with cilantro pesto & fritos is incredible, and it’s served with Fritos for dipping. Follow it up with a warm lobster roll and you might need a nap with that wine. Perfect spot for a lunch hangover.
RSomm Says: to pair the cheese dip with a Roederer Estate Sparking Rose and you won't be disappointed.
Cochon Volant BBQ / website
You’ve likely heard of this killer BBQ joint in Sonoma but did you know that they cater and deliver! All the standards grace their menu, and believe me they are all to die for. I mean, succulent brisket, tender pork, creamy mac & cheese and homemade lemonade, come on! If you love good southern cookin’ this smokehouse is for you.
The Spinster Sisters / website
This low key restaurant has lots of outdoor seating which makes it is a fabulous choice for weekend brunch. However I’ve always felt the real hero was their rotating dinner menu *currently carry-out only due to Covid. The chef sources local ingredients but creates really unique international dishes with wide appeal. They have a decent selection of vegetarian options, hire great servers and make some amazing grits.
The Bird and the Bottle / website
True to it’s name The Bird and the Bottle treats its featured cocktails and wine list equal to it's delicious menu. The food is flavorful and unique, and the servers can point you in the right direction for sharing a plethora of tasty small plates. If all else fails go for anything that says Korean BBQ or fried and you won’t be disappointed.
Cafe La Haye / website
This intimate one room American bistro is perfect. A reservation is a good idea, but they do keep a handful of the dozen or so tables available for walk-ins. The owner Saul is often bouncing between tables to check in on guests and ensure they are well-fed. The daily risotto is always a good choice but the meat courses are also rich with flavor. Yum!
The Farmer’s Wife / website
Ask anyone who knows me and they’ll tell you I’m a sucker for a sandwich. Inside The Barlow, among all the fun restaurants and shops, you'll find The Farmer’s wife. This spot leads with fresh local ingredients, is super casual, and really does make an amazing sandwich. Go for the sausage and berries if you want to try something different, and don’t forget to grab a beer from Woodfour Brewing to wash it all down.
Sip (something else)
*If you see Redhorse Pizza or The Black Piglet food truck you’re in for a treat.
Cooperage Brewing Company / website
The microbrew scene is blowing up in and around Santa Rosa and Cooperage Brewing is playing their part. Much of the appeal comes from the delicious food trucks they rotate in daily.
Hen House / website
At this tap room you can tell they are having fun. Kids, families and dogs are welcome on the outdoor patio and the rotating hop pale ale is top notch.
Perch + Plow / website
Hot in downtown Santa Rosa, and right on the revamped courthouse square, is Perch and Plow. If you don't have time to discover their food, please make time for the specialty drinks. Many of which give a new meaning to the idea of a, "salt-rimmed glass." *temporarily closed.
Take
A cross-body is always best for a day in wine country, so you can be hands free for tasting and you won't leave anything behind. I love my Vinglace and I use it all the time for keeping wine cold on a picnic or at happy hour outside in the hot sun. However when I'm traveling I prefer my Corkcicle Air. For snacks, I can never decide between my Business & Pleasure or my Picnic at Ascot cooler bag. Another great idea is a padded re-usable wine bag to safely tuck away wine you decided not to ship. The Jet Bag, worse case, absorbs the entire bottle if it breaks. Unless you are flying abroad, TSA allows an unlimited amount of wine under 24% abv. Shipping direct from wineries, which we highly recommend, can vary depending on your home state, click here to view the individual regulations.
rearview
Next time, we'd carve out time to blend our own wine again. This we've done several times at Ravenswood Winery, but you can also become a winemaker in 90 minutes at The Buena Vista Winery. This experience is really worth it, especially if you have an interest in learning more about winemaking.
RTip: For a real education, check out the "Norad of wineries," Palmaz in Napa, but be sure to inquire about taking a glass with you on your tour, as it can get lengthy.
