Ready and Roam / Puerto Rico
Photo Credit: Daniel Reyes
Where
Puerto Rico - Old San Juan and the islands of Culebra and ViequesPuerto Rico often considered the heart and soul of the Caribbean and also a U.S Territory rich in history and culture, packed with pristine beaches for relaxation and jungle mountains for adventure.
Plan
Go: Spring Break is ideal, & mid-April to June. Let’s just go ahead and say it. Puerto Rico is one of the world’s great natural adventure parks. And for the US resident, it’s a fun-filled, manageable Spring Break destination. This avoids the busy winter and rainy, hurricane seasons, and the weather is perfection, typically right in the 80s. My family, including a teen and tween, can’t seem to get enough of it. As pretty avid travelers, we have an enormous bucket list of destinations. Yet we return to Puerto Rico again and again…3 times already, to be exact. And I don’t think we’re close to being finished with it. Why, do you ask? For starters, San Juan is a direct and usually reasonably-priced flight from Minneapolis. Puerto Rico is also a US Territory so currency and language are not an issue. But if you want to dabble in speaking a different language, you’ll have every opportunity. And, logistics aside, the people are lovely and the place is downright gorgeous. Settled originally by Spain, Old San Juan offers European flair and charming architecture. The forts are fun for young and old alike, there are breathtaking beaches, caves, waterfalls, world-class rain-forests, bio-luminescent bays, smaller islands well-worth exploring…I could and I will go on. In the meantime, can we all agree that if you’ve never been to PR, you should go? And if you have, then go again! Although hurricane devastation was widespread and immense, it still tops our list as an all-time favorite, and tourist dollars are welcome now more than ever.
Learn
You know how every more ‘exotic’ place you go has its own unique flora and fauna? Well, Puerto Rico is no different. For starters, expect to see cats, iguanas, and sometimes horses everywhere…roaming around and acting like they own the place (they do). Chickens and roosters are also on the loose, and if you visit the town beach on Culebra and you're lucky, you’ll even probably come across a wild pig. I don’t think this pig swims with models, as was advertised for the failed Fyre Fest, but our kids fell in love nonetheless and we almost thought we’d be swapping out one of our dogs for him. So be prepared for all of that! Now, I realize that the aforementioned animals aren’t necessarily ‘exotic’. But don’t worry, Puerto Rico will also reward you with the Puerto Rican parrot, Rhesus macaques monkey, and charming yet very loud little Coqui frogs. The Coqui, in fact, is the cultural symbol of the island. What also caught our attention throughout all of PR were the amazing trees…the palms, mangroves, almost peeled-bark, painted-looking Rainbow Eucalyptus (wow!), and the impressive, large-rooted, and spiky Cieba. There’s a 300-year-old Cieba on Vieques whose roots tower my 6’2” husband. Not bad! If you’re a nature lover like me, PR is your place. Wonder around every corner.
Stay
During our trips to Puerto Rico, we’ve unpacked our bags and immersed ourselves mainly in San Juan, Vieques, and Culebra, with day trips around the main island. San Juan serves as a great home base and consists of both Old San Juan (walkable, historic, quaint) and the Condado (closer to the airport with the larger hotel resorts and nightlife). Below are my recommendations for each.
In Old San Juan, Old San Juan Penthouse - Sol 13 / reservations through vrbo
When my family travels, we usually like to book vacation homes or apartments. It just seems like we get more space and bang for our buck, with the bonus of a kitchen to cook meals in. This contemporary Penthouse has gorgeous views, ample room, wood beams, vaulted ceilings, concrete countertops…it’s heavenly. Paloma, the owner, has impeccable style. Plus, Sol 13 is a 5-minute walk to El Morro Fort, the San Juan Bautista Cathedral, and many shops, but is tucked away from the noise of the city. Staying here was a delight.
Casablanca Hotel / See reservations through Expedia or booking.com
Offering excellent customer service in the heart of Old San Juan, the Casablanca has beautiful and modern, yet traditional Puerto Rican rooms with a unique rooftop of personal tubs (you’d need to see them in person to fully understand). It’s an easy walk to restaurants, shops, and the historic forts, and they have a lovely breakfast, too. For our family of 4, we booked a Superior Suite, which offers a 2-bedroom city view with a King and two twin beds and veranda. We only stayed for a night, but would have been comfortable staying much longer.
Hotel El Convento / See reservations through Expedia or booking.com
This lovely hotel offers all of the finest amenities and is situated in a gorgeous location, my favorite street in all of Old San Juan. As the name implies, it was a Carmelite convent 350 years ago and is located across from the gorgeous Cathedral. Our first trip to PR coincided with Easter, and we felt so lucky to have stumbled upon the church’s Easter celebration. It seemed as though the entire city had gathered for this nighttime parade. Sometimes, it’s the unplanned moments that make up the memories that I treasure most.
Rtip: If you are looking for an interior retreat, take a look at Hacienda Siesta Alegre. Tucked away in the hills above El Yunque Rainforest, this spanish colonial boutique property is completely enchanting.
In Condado,La Concha Resort / See reservations through Expedia or booking.com
The Concha is contemporary and clean with gorgeous pools and gardens. It is located on the beach, but keep in mind that this beach is typically very windy and wavy. Still, the hotel has gorgeous views and ample rooms. We opted for a King with a sleeper sofa for our family.
In Culebra, Rancho Culebra / reservations through vrbo
On our second trip to Puerto Rico, we found our all-time favorite vacation home nestled in the hills next to the coast. And when I say home, I truly mean that it feels like home when we’re there (mind you, while staying in a dream house on an island paradise). Owners Terry and Dennis live next door and operate a small ranch focusing on sustainability. In fact, they created the ‘Foundation for a Better Puerto Rico’ and have been instrumental in rebuilding Culebra following the hurricanes. While there, we’ve had the treat of learning how to make cheese, were invited on an educational field trip to Terry’s kitchen with one of the local schools and our daughter got to name a calf, the baby of a cow she had grown fond of two years prior. When you arrive, you may find fresh milk and cheese in the refrigerator, pepper jelly, and gifts from the farm throughout your stay. Although not directly on the water, there’s a lookout tower with gorgeous views…the perfect place for breakfast and cocktails. Our kids now have no interest in staying anywhere but here. On that note, I’d better secure our reservation for next year! If this home happens to be booked, opt for another vacation rental. They are plentiful on the island. Much of the enchantment of Culebra is that it is untouched by big development, therefore no luxury resorts.
Rtip: If you prefer a more traditional hotel experience, Club Seaborne is the one and only hotel on the island and offers 12 romantic rooms and WiFi.
In Vieques,The larger of the ‘small islands’, Vieques is a Caribbean gem. You will see ‘wild’ horses roaming free, dusty backroads through untamed jungles that lead to glistening beaches, and the most incredible bioluminescent bay. Its history is rich, and ties to the US are somewhat tumultuous. In the 1940s, the US purchased sixty percent of the island to practice bombings and this occurred up until 2003. Abandoned Navy bunkers remain, and this area is still undeveloped, which has a certain allure. But due to hurricane damage, I can’t personally recommend any current lodging on Vieques. They have struggled to recover, and that breaks my heart. From what I’ve been told, the locals are very proud people and are hesitant to receive aid. I can imagine that much of this has to do with the past. Vieques is absolutely worth a visit, though! But please do some hurricane-related research if you plan to make a trip here. There are two small ‘cities’ on the island, Esperanza (on the beach and more catered to tourists) and Isabelle Segunda (city/ government center).
Rtip: If staying in Vieques the Malecon House and El Blok are two lovely beachfront boutique hotels in Esperanza.
Explore
Whether you are a history buff, adventure seeker, or beach bum, Puerto Rico has plenty to keep the mind, body, and soul happily occupied. Technically, you can drive the island in a day, and day trips from San Juan are easy if you plan well. And while I point out many of the highlights of Old San Juan, one of my favorite memories is strolling its vibrant streets and simply getting lost.
In Old Town San Juan,Forts and Castles / website
A visit to Puerto Rico would be incomplete without spending time at one or more of San Juan’s forts. The structures are magnificent on their own, and one can learn about the rich history of the area and actually feel what it might have been like to live during the exploration of the New World. Although the Spanish were certainly not the first inhabitants of the island, Puerto Rico acted as a base for the Spanish Empire into the Americas and was thus named ‘Rich Port’, invaluable for its spacious bay and natural harbor. Castillo San Cristóbal is the largest Spanish fort built in the New World and, as such, is quite impressive. If you have the time, take a tour here. Castillo San Felipe del Morro is located at the tip of Old San Juan. If you want to live like a local, grab a kite and join other families as they picnic and frolic along its grassy slopes.
Parques Las Palmoas - ‘Pigeon Park’ / website
My kids adore this park, and I must admit that my husband and I are fans, too. The park is located at the end of Cristo Street next to Capilla del Cristo and provides shelter for the birds with twisted trees and geometric brick walls. As long as you’re not afraid of these feathered friends, this will be a fun jaunt for the whole family. For a dollar you can purchase feed, but admission to the park is free. Even if you have nothing in your hand at all, it’s very likely that a pigeon, or a flock of them, will get up close and personal. With numerous benches and water views, it gives a nice break from wandering the city. Just make sure to look before you sit.
San Juan Bautista Cathedral / website
This grand, Gothic cathedral marks the earliest beginning of Spanish colonization on the island and is a can’t miss. Built in 1521, it is the oldest church on US soil and the 2nd oldest in the Western Hemisphere. Early visitors and travelers to San Juan would visit the cathedral as soon as they got off the boat to thank God for a safe voyage. It is also the final resting place of Spanish explorer and first governor of Puerto Rico, Juan Ponce de Leon. You can attend mass on Saturdays at 7 pm, Sunday at 9 and 11 am, and weekdays 7:25 am and 12:15 pm. The church is open daily from 8 am to 4 pm (Sunday until 2 pm).
Day Trip from Old San Juan,
Cave Exploration / website
If you’ve read any of my past R&R trips, this might sound redundant, but I have a thing for caves. I can’t get enough. And this excitement reached a pinnacle in Puerto Rico. The giant network of caves here is intricate, incredible, an eye-candy experience...I almost went out of my mind. And we only visited two!
Cavernas de Camuy
This cave is one of the highlights in all of my time in Puerto Rico and comprises the world’s third-largest cave system. With an underground river, massive chambers, and the Tres Pueblo Sinkhole plunging to 400ft, your experience here feels otherworldly. And maybe it is. The indigenous Taino never slept in caves because they believed them to be sacred portals to the spirit world. I could be swayed to believing so, too. It is awe-inspiring, and one of the most beautiful places I’ve visited. Sadly, I don’t believe they’ve been open since Hurricane Maria in 2017. But when it reopens, do not miss this experience!
Ventana (window) Cave
An easy drive from San Jaun, Ventana offers a crazy beautiful view of the lush, green fields of the island. This is one instance where I would truly say ‘it’s all about the destination’. A short and easy hike takes you through dark and bat-filled caverns and rewards you with an awe-inspiring view at the end. Photos just can’t capture it. Get there early to avoid tour buses. You will find fantastic formations, and with two cave entrances and a higher altitude than most caves, a much warmer and breezier climate. It’s a great option for those who may be claustrophobic but still wish to explore a natural cave. Headlamps are offered and stable footwear is recommended. Located in Arecibo, tours last 1.5 hours and cost $19.
“The waterfalls within almost made me giddy, as if we’d stumbled upon the fountain of youth.”
El Yunque National Forest / website
At 29,000 acres, El Yunque is one of the most biologically diverse of the national forests and home to hundreds of animal and plant species, some of which can only be found here. Enjoy hiking in a gorgeous rainforest with waterfalls and photo ops galore. If you’ve always dreamed of swimming near waterfalls, you can do that here. On a clear day, don’t miss the moderate hike to Mt. Britton lookout tower where you can see forever. It’s breathtaking.
Luquillo Beach
Luquillo Beach is one of the best beaches on the mainland, and it works well to combine a day trip here with El Yunque. Kiosks filled with tasty food at reasonable prices seem to go on forever, and this is where we found many of our trinkets to take back home. I love the handcrafted earrings that my daughter and I purchased from one of the vendors. Plan to grab lunch or dinner here before or after El Yunque, and join local families enjoying the beach and living it up! If that’s not enough, between El Yunque and Luquillo Beach you’ll find the natural water slide Las Paylas or Las Pailas. It’s off the beaten path, stunning and so much fun.
Rtip: For lunch check out the nearby Peruvian Ceviche Hut. As Roam Guide Jennifer Craig’s favorite restaurant in Puerto Rico, you know it’s going to be good.
On Vieques,La Chiva Beach
La Chiva offers serenity in its endless shades of blue water. As the beach itself is very long, it’s easy to find your own private spot here and the snorkeling is amazing for any age. We spent a full day here and were in awe of its beauty, along with the fact that we had the entire beach to ourselves.
BioLuminescent Bay
This was an experience of a lifetime. Glass-bottomed kayaks allow you to view schools of glowing fish as they swim underneath. Mosquito Bay is considered to be the best representation of a bioluminescent bay and is listed as a national natural landmark. In 2008, The Guiness Book of World Records designated this Bio Bay as the brightest in the world. The glowing waters are due to the presence of microscopic dinoflagellates, and since Hurricane Maria in 2017, dinoflagellate numbers here have inexplicably doubled! My daughter was not thrilled, mostly due to the uncertainty of what could be below, especially at night. And I don’t blame her. But what a trip!
Rtip - If you don’t make it to Vieques, but love the idea of a glowing water adventure, head to Fajardo, home to Puerto Rico’s other Bio Bay.
On Culebra,Culebra is a sleepy little island providing solitude and tranquility to travelers. That’s not to say that it’s short on activities and adventure. Its beaches are unmatched, and you can spend your time fishing, hiking, snorkeling, or simply surrendering to the relaxed pace of island life. It offers the perfect retreat to renew the spirit.
Beaches / Playas
Consistently listed in the top most beautiful beaches of the world, Flamenco is a crescent of pure white sand and clear, turquoise waters. A couple of WWII tankers dot the beach and add visual interest to the landscape. Food kiosks and smoothie stands are on site, as is the entry to the ‘forbidden’ beach. Shh...don’t tell. But you can sneak through the gate and hike the path to Playa Carlos Rosario for top-notch snorkeling and a secluded slice of paradise. Another beautiful option for snorkeling and the chance to swim with sea turtles is to head to the calm waters of Tamarindo Beach. It has an amazing view of Cayo Luis Pena and is a fantastic place to kayak. While snorkeling, we found an adorable octopus clinging to a rock. We must have watched it change texture and color for almost an hour. On the north side of the island, you’ll encounter the rough waves of Playa Brava. Dubbed the Angry Beach, this is the place we love to watch the waves roll in. The sound alone is soothing, and aside from nesting turtles, there’s hardly anyone ever here. And if you’re close to town, make sure to grab your mask and snorkel and slip into the water at Playa Sardinas. The snorkeling here is wonderful, but please wear your reef shoes as the sea urchins are everywhere.
Solider’s Point
We’ve seen the most spectacular sunsets from the rocky beach at Soldier’s Point. And as it’s on a peninsula, there are two sides to explore, each worth your time. We love climbing the boulders on the north side of the point, followed by a relaxing sunset swim.
On Culebrita,This even tinier little island off the coast of Culebra is inhabited only by goats and accessible only by hiring a boat captain to take you there. And you definitely should! We did some fishing along the way and were stunned by its spectacular waters. Snorkeling here is a must, and I would absolutely recommend hiking to the rundown lighthouse at the top. Restoration is currently being done on both the structure itself and the pathway to get there, though I loved it in its natural and ‘undiscovered’ state too. If you visit Culebrita over the weekend, the bay will be full of glitzy yachts. Instead, I’d opt to get there during the week so you can have the tidal pools all to yourself. They are teeming with sea life and will entertain young ones for hours.
Rtip - While both Culebra and Vieques are popular day trips from the mainland, savor your time here for at least a couple of days.
Shop
In San Juan,Farmer’s Markets
Don’t fret if you don’t make it to Luquillo (mentioned above). The streets and shops of Old San Juan will have you covered. We’ve found open air Saturday markets by the shipyard and near Castillo de Morro and both were fun to peruse. During one visit, we stopped by the stand of an older couple making pottery, and they invited our daughter to give it a try. Her experience was priceless, and we purchased a small, painted vase that remains a favorite. We also adore our Puerto Rican checkers, as much for the memory of watching the old men play as for the actual game itself.
Ole / website
And for an unforgettable opportunity and old-world feel, stop by Ole, an emporium selling hand-fitted Panama hats. They specialize in assisting you with the perfect custom-fit, and you can choose from a huge variety of hat styles and ribbon. We all left with one, and it was such a fun experience!
Devour
You won’t go hungry during your time in Puerto Rico. Traditional fare includes Mofongo, (mashed fried green plantains seasoned with garlic and spices and topped with steak, chicken, seafood, or veggies and sauce) Corn Fritters, Fried Plantains, Rice and Beans, and yummy Rum Cake, along with much more.
In Old San Juan,Waffle-era Tea Room / website
If you want to start your day off inspired and thoroughly satiated, head to the Waffle-era Tea Room. This should be a ‘don’t miss’ on your food itinerary. Specializing in both sweet and savory waffles and crepes, you could really eat every meal here and be happy. This place inspired my son to ask for a waffle maker for Christmas...just saying. The atmosphere and location are ideal and service is efficient and inviting. They also serve up phenomenal coffee and tea.
St. Germain / website
This is an excellent choice for those looking for vegetarian, vegan, or gluten-free options. It has a lovely ambience with a creative offering of sandwiches, salads, and quiche.
Pirilo / website
If you’re looking for pizza, you must go to Pirilo and eat upstairs if you can. It’s a special place. The food is fantastic and the staff makes you feel like an old friend.
To sample the more traditional food that I teased you with above, try Barrachina or El Jibarito. El Jibario isn’t fancy, but has consistently good food and is always packed. Barrachina is the birthplace of the world famous Pina Colada, has a lovely courtyard, and delicious, filling dishes.
On Culebra, Culebra is casual and unpretentious, and dining here is just that. Expect open air seating and friendly service. For a small island, we’ve been very impressed with the food.
Zaco’s Tacos / website
We are always in the mood for tacos, and this place is super fun with amazing food and margaritas.
Dinghy Dock / website
A great atmosphere, good food, and is located (as the name implies) right on the dock. People (ie. my kids) love feeding the fish right from their plates.
Susie’s / website
Our most memorable meal and somewhat more upscale dining experience was at Susie’s. Known for local, fresh ingredients and seating in their beautiful gardens. Our son felt like a winner here. He ordered the whole local lobster and was blown away.
Krusty Krab / website
And if it’s open, try to get to the Krusty Krab before sunset. It’s located right at the top of the island and offers the most amazing view of Luis Pena Nature Preserve. This is low-key, but delicious, food-truck style eating and you may share a picnic table with a new friend.
Important to note: Due to the size of Culebra and logistics in receiving shipments from the main island and mainland US, the grocery store doesn’t always have the greatest assortment of fruits and veggies. However, there now is a fresh market/ landscape nursery on the island. The name escapes me now, but if you ask a local, they would be happy to give you information. I can tell you that it’s right down the road from Tikis Grill Burgers, a ‘permanent’ food truck with awesome food.
Rtip: Check open hours/ days before going anywhere. Culebra follows the rules of island time. Sometimes they’re open, sometimes they’re not.
Sip
Cortes Chocobar / website
For the chocolate addicts out there, Cortes Chocobar is your place. Not everything on their menu contains chocolate, but many items do, and people rave about the food too. We opted for the thick, traditional Puerto Rican hot chocolate with churros, and it was delectable.
Cafe Teatro Hermanas Rivera / website
As you head into the evening, make your way to Cafe Teatro Hermanas Rivera. Their list of mojitos is extensive, and it’s clear that they know what they’re doing. Sip on one from a swing as you sing along to karaoke and live music.
Barrachina / website
Since 1978, the Pina Colada has been the official drink of Puerto Rico. You will find them everywhere...bars, restaurants, and even roadside stands. When and where the Pina colada was invented is up for debate. Both the Hilton Beachcomber bar in 1954 and Barrachina Restaurant in 1963 claim to have created the first frothy drink. Why not sample both? You are in the Caribbean after all.
“Time Flies When You’re Having RUM” -Erik Voskamp
Take
When it comes to packing for a tropical destination, less is more. I take our snorkel gear, flippers, a cute cover up, a packable floppy hat, my scuba booties, as well as a rash guard for snorkeling and good, reef safe sunscreen for protection from the hot sun during water sports.
Rtip: Check for luggage restrictions on the island hoppers to Vieques and Culebra. Usually, there is an additional charge for heavy bags.
Rearview
I’m yearning to get to Ponce and explore more in the southern part of the island. The recent earthquakes, however, may delay my dreams of getting there soon, and my heart goes out to those struggling to rebuild once again. They’ve already suffered so much. In the meantime, I’m hoping that our travels will take us west. I learned how to surf on a trip to Costa Rica, and riding the waves of Rincon would be a thrill. For even more excitement, Tanama River Adventures offers spelunking and river tours in the caves. And we haven’t yet made it to The Arecibo Observatory, which is the world’s largest radio telescope. I’ve heard wonderful things about this educational experience.
