Roam Guide / Minnesota's North Shore
Where?
North Shore, MinnesotaWhen to go?
We make an annual visit to the North Shore the last weekend of July to celebrate our anniversary and we find the weather is always ideal. We couldn't wait that long this summer and went in mid-June and that was lovely too. We were thrilled to catch the peak of the lupine bloom. However, the days were a bit too chilly to really enjoy swimming, so we still prefer late summer. All the seasons offer something special though, from the fall foliage, to skiing and more; there isn’t a bad time to visit! We can hardly wait to get back up there.
How to get there?
The closest airport to the area is in Duluth (DLH), with daily flights from Minneapolis and Chicago. The alternative is to drive north on 35 from Mpls / St. Paul and follow hwy. 61 along the coast. No matter where you live or where you've been, the vast, untouched beauty of the North Shore will astound you.
Rtip: If you’re looking for a unique way to explore the north shore this summer, the owners at VanGo Rentals can set you up with a campervan for your road trip and they are located right in St. Paul.
Where did you stay?
Poplar Haus is our favorite spot to rent on the Gunflint Trail; it is owned by couples who used their experience in the Twin Cities hospitality scene to breath new life into an old school lodge a few years ago. They've got a second story deck overlooking Poplar Lake and run a restaurant with a delicious menu and killer bar program. They also have a well-curated liquor store on site. You can choose from a handful of private cabins (we like the Northern Gnome). They are dog-friendly and offer free use of their water craft. It is an easy drive from Grand Marais, and offers great access to points further up the trail. Be warned, once you eat in the restaurant you'll want to have every meal there and not cook any of your groceries:)
If you find a cozy cottage you love, you've got to book fast because they fill far in advance. This is one of our favorite VRBO private rentals. The cabin was built by a Norwegian immigrant and is thoughtfully maintained by the family that owns it now, but there are others nearby on the Cascade Road that are fabulous too. If you plan to take a pet, filter dog-friendly options first so you don’t get your hopes up:) We are taking my parents in August and found this cute option, perfect for a family with pets.
If you are looking for a more affordable option The North Country Cottages were recently renovated by the loveliest local family to maximize their northern charm. And while not on the water, they are well situated for driving into Lutsen and Grand Marais, or to bike to nearby parks like Cascade State Park.
What should we do?
The sightseeing and adventuring options on the North Shore are endless, but here are a few of my suggestions:
Waterfalls,Gooseberry Falls is an iconic stop, but one that I might suggest skipping this year if you want to avoid crowds. The trails down to the falls are always bustling with groups excited to wade in the pools at the base of the falls. Most visitors we encountered didn't seem concerned with keeping distance so if this is a concern I would suggest going early in the day or skipping all together. High Falls on the Canadian Border (also called Pigeon Falls or “the Niagara of the North Shore”) gets 1/16th the amount of visitors as Gooseberry Falls. The walk to the main falls is on an accessible trail, making it easy to enjoy the stunning views with minimal effort for all ages in your travel party. Although a good distance further north, it is worth it if you can combine the drive with a few stops outside Grand Marais and you have the time in your schedule. The border is set to open on August 21st, and the Grand Portage State Park remains open daily. You can still see the historic structures at the fort, although the informative heritage center remains closed. Without the helpful context from the friendly educators, I might suggest planning for more time on the beaches and trails this summer and returning for history lessons in the future. We also love Partridge Falls which are certainly remote, but this might be the summer to find them!
Rtip: we love the especially secluded Thompson Falls on the Cascade River near the intersection of The Grade and Bally Creek Road near the eagle mountain trailhead. Another fun waterfall in Cook County is Devils Kettle Falls. The stairs are no joke but worth it. Check out this printable waterfall map for more information.
Icons,The Split Rock Lighthouse was closed on our trip with plans of opening on July 15th with limited access to only ticketed visitors. We actually prefer to take a moment to drive down to Pebble Beach to enjoy the pretty view from the bay with the lighthouse on the cliffs above. Follow the fork in the Split Rock Lighthouse road to the right just after the park office and you will shortly arrive at a parking lot. A brief walk down the trail from your car will bring you to the rocky beach, great for skipping stones, wading, or picnics. There are no tables, so you might want to bring a blanket or plan on scouting out a driftwood seat upon arrival.
Temperance River, it is easy to pull into one of the roadside parking spots and hop on the trail on either side of the road. You can watch some of the brave kids cliff diving in the pretty opening to the Lake Superior side. You might want to join them for a refreshing swim. This stop takes only a few minutes but rewards you with a perfect vista of summers on the shore.
Naniboujou Lodge is an iconic 1920’s landmark with its original colorful shingle-sided facade, Native Cree inspired ornamental hall and giant stone fireplace. I dream of their wild blueberry pancakes and special weekend brunches, but sadly it is closed for the remainder of the year. It is worth a brief pull-in, even just to see it from the outside, as well as the peaceful stretch of private shoreline it occupies.
State Parks / Hiking,Tettegouche State Park has a nice visitors center and the bathrooms are open. We’ve stayed in this park and it has an expansive trail system if you are looking for more remote exploration this year. The 'cart-in' sites with views of the lake are preferred as they are a bit more secluded. This area offers nearby beach access and is only a short walk to the Baptism River- a perfect place to take a dip. Reservations for the cabins book far in advance, but you can still take day trips to enjoy the secluded interior trails around Tettegouche camp and Mic Mak Lake.
Tettegouche Hiking
Cascade River State Park is an easy place to hike along the river canyon and it was really quiet on our visit in June. I like that it’s closer to Grand Marais and easy to navigate. The parking lot is somewhat set back from the entrance on the highway, but it means less hiking on foot once you are in the park.
We like the forested trails at Judge CR Magney State Park and the Devil’s Kettle Falls are an enticing draw. The Brule river splits and half disappears mysteriously into a pothole (the devil's kettle). There are several beautiful cascades throughout the park. It’s past Grand Marais but worth the effort, especially when heading to High Falls. Actually, wayside stops on the beaches all the way from Grand Marais to Grand Portage are nice for agate hunting and avoiding crowds this season: try a rest stop at Paradise Beach or Hollow Rock en route to other adventures along your drive.
If you have the time, it’s always relaxing to drive up the Gunflint Trail looking for wildlife with your ultimate destination being a drink on Poplar Haus’s awesome deck. Gunflint Trail is a 57-mile paved National Scenic Byway that winds through the heart of the Superior National Forest at the edge of the Boundary Waters Canoe Area. The Chik-Wauk Museum and Nature Center is located in a historic lodge on Saganaga Lake near the end of the trail. The little lodge is small, but holds very interesting exhibits on the rich cultural and natural history of the region. They usually have interactive classes you can join (a group of young naturalists was using nets to hunt for dragon flies in the lake when we arrived), but this year, the quiet, well-groomed trails and secluded nature viewing areas are most enticing. This is a good area to try for moose and other wildlife sightings. Consider stopping for snacks and souvenirs at the many historic lodges and outfitters along the trail; there are many wonderful businesses along the drive. We also enjoy hiking Honeymoon Bluff, which is a nice way to work off your meal!
Beaches,Iona’s Scientific Area Beach is an easy stop good for a car break or picnic and it has a pink stone beach. I like less popular natural areas like these as they usually have only a few visitors compared to the larger parks, but still offer scenic views and trails. I also love that this beach was named for the woman who helped to preserve it; remember to not remove the stones and plants at these sites, and to make an effort to leave the natural areas better than found them.
You will be prompted to give a donation as you park in the lot just off of Hwy 61 at Sugarloaf Cove Nature Center Beach. A short trail leads down to the cove and it has been completely deserted and peaceful when we visit. This stop would be a nice option for artists, yogis, etc. in search of a peaceful location to practice or meditate, but we also enjoy soaking up the sun on the rocks while our dog wades in the water.
Black Beach is gaining popularity on social media because of it’s eye-catching black sand and picturesque rocky peninsula. It is worth the stop to stretch your legs, enjoy a picnic (there are nice modern picnic tables near the water), and maybe even go for a swim (it has been windy of each of our visits though). Be sure to drive past the first parking lot you see - it is kind of tricky because the overflow lot looks like the main entrance but the real one is about 1/4 mile further down and just a short walk from the water. A large campground is being built and while not open yet, helps you recognize that you are nearing this previously private piece of shoreline.
Where should we eat?
Driving from Duluth to Grand Marais, Wild State Cider in Duluth has got a patio and food trucks for service this summer! While you can get your hands on this awesome cider online or in stores in the cities, you can only try seasonal specialty batches of their all natural cider in the taproom. I love the Maple Blueberry and Sangria!
Rtip: If you’re are in search of a delicious lunch, pick-up the Cajun Finn sandwich or anything off the menu at Northern Waters Smokehaus to pair with your cider or for your drive up North.
Betty’s Pies in Two Harbors is a regular stop for us, we usually just splurge on a whole to-go pie to avoid long lines but they have a call-ahead order system in place right now and very clear signage. For reference, it was about a 10 minute wait to order a pie when we stopped in on a Thursday a.m.
We are big fans of Fika Coffee in Lutsen and they've got a great new takeout window. They make excellent espresso drinks, their beans are also very good, and they stock World's Best Donuts on the weekends.
The patio at the Coho Cafe in Tofte was bustling and is always a favorite of ours for outdoor dining on the drive up the coast. Their menu is available to-go, so you can take your lunch to the nearby Tofte Park, grab a picnic table and listen to the waves.
We love staying at Poplar Haus (on the gunflint trail) and the Twin Cities couples who revamped this lodge have a background in the hospitality scene so their food and drinks are remarkably good. Their second story deck looks out over Poplar Lake and is for sure a favorite spot to enjoy a meal up north. They do have indoor options but it's best to call ahead and reserve a spot. It's hard to go wrong with their menu, but we always get the glazed brussels and parmesan tots and then find ourselves really torn over all the awesome seasonal entrees like walleye chowder, poboys, a fried chicken sandwich with ramp aoli, etc. When in doubt, you can't mess up with the savory Hausburger.
In Grand Marais,We were so pleased to find many of our favorite places still open for business this summer (with modifications). Of course it was tragic to see a giant hole in the heart of town from the fires, but it’s a poignant reminder of how meaningful the town is on the North Shore.
We always enjoy watching the sunset from the top deck of Voyageur Brewing, and we were happy to see that they are really keeping busy. They had indoor and outdoor seating but it was so crowded we opted to do takeaway with their amazing wings and a growler. Visit their website for reservation and take-out information. Hungry Hippie Tacos is another great take-out option. If you prefer to eat on site, they've still got some seating out front.
World’s Best Donuts is keeping two outdoor windows hopping so the short lines moved quickly. Java Moose Coffee cleared out their interior to make a very efficient ordering system. They've got a small patio to enjoy your brew, or again, just cross the street you can sip away while watching the waves roll in. Can't beat starting a weekend morning with their cake donuts and some coffee on the beach!
Fisherman’s Daughter (formerly Dockside) just opened when we arrived and what perfect timing! They've got fish and chips, smoked fish, cheese curds, etc. and it’s all amazing.
If you are in need of groceries, Whole Foods Coop is being very vigilant and has a well-managed system for shopping. We love building picnic meals for the beach here. Just bring a cooler and a cutting board and off you go.
What should we shop for, or bring back with us?
Each visit we meet new, wonderful business owners and encourage you to stop in anywhere that catches your eye. The Big Lake Life’s friendly owner, also owns Fisherman's daughter, and has added a new front window rigged up with a very clever lighting to show when there is space to come in and enjoy her shop. Kristoffer at the popular Upstate MN just reopened, and now that he announced he won't be reopening in MPLS, it's even more important to find a moment to go and shop with him while you're in town. He's a beautiful soul and his goods are incredible and unique. We love the team at the Stone Harbor Wilderness Supply and they are always a good resource for equipment rentals and questions on BWCA canoeing, etc. Of course the Trading Post is a must for every visit in the likelihood that you’ve forgotten something essential. Ask if Phyllis is working, she’s the best!
Any tips for traveling to the North Shore?
Before you go, be sure to go online and buy the MN State Park Pass vehicle sticker that covers a full year of access and then you won’t have to check in at any of the park offices on arrival. Most offices are closed but did have a QR code sign and paper purchase system advertised if needed. Take a moment to study online to learn about the current procedures and how to help protect these amazing resources. If you're headed there this summer, pack all sorts of bug repellant options. On Lake Superior the breeze seems to help so you don’t notice them on the shore, but if you stay inland the mosquitos can be awful. Overall I'd just tell readers to bring a mask and be respectful of the small business owners who are working so hard to adjust for this season. They've weathered a tough year and are working hard to keep their staff and visitors safe. With the influx of local interest this year, I hope people pack some extra patience and tip super well.
What should we take with us?
The beauty of this trip is that you don’t need much, and if you find you forgot essential gear there are world class outfitters nearby. Comfortable athleisure wear and hiking clothes, light layers and jackets for breezy nights on the shore, sturdy soled water sandals or shoes, a daypack to carry water bottles, beach blankets, repellant wipes, my camera, a cribbage board, and a favorite read (like this collection of northern poetry) are my essentials. Since we travel with our mountain dog, toddler, and baby too, we make sure we pack for their comfort (mosquito nets for the car and stroller, travel bowl) & towel for the dog, and lots of easy trail snacks for all to encourage good behavior).
Tell us something we don't know?
North House Folk School continues to teach traditional northern craft through virtual and on-campus classes. Did you know that you can also enjoy a sail around the Grand Marais harbor in their traditional schooner, the Hjørdis ?!
For a different view of town, make the short drive up to the Pincushion Mountain Lookout for a spectacular panorama above Grand Marais!
What is the one can't miss item on your itinerary?
Each year the list of favorites grows longer, but it’s been fun to try and land on the most magical ones for hosting my family on their first trip to the region. Tettegouche State Park is unbelievably beautiful, and in a brief visit you can enjoy the dramatic cliffside view from Shovel Point to Palisade Head, hike to waterfalls, or relax on the stone beach at the outlet of the Baptism River. No trip is complete for me without a chance to sit at the water’s edge at Artist’s Point. Both of these tourist favorites deserve their popularity.
