Roam Guide / Rome, Florence and Venice
Based in Minneapolis, Marcia Miller is happiest spending time traveling with her husband and four children (ranging in age from 16 to 22). As a foodie and adventure-seeker, she loves to travel so much that she has taken to planning trips for all of her friends. Her approach is all encompassing as she values the full experience - a great meal at a local hot-spot, the personal touches of a lovely hotel, and a hidden shop with the perfect takeaway from a local artisan. Professionally Marcia leads a marketing agency based in Minneapolis that focuses on healthcare clients who want to bring humanity into their communications and content. She is a marketing leader that has worked at ad agencies, start-ups and Fortune 10 companies in the course of her career. In her first Roam Guide she gets down to brass tacks on New York City, now she is taking us on an ‘Italy Sampler’ with her teenagers.
Where?
Rome, Florence, and VeniceIn our attempt to expose our children to many different places, we took them to Italy over Spring Break. Knowing we only had a little over a week, we chose to hit the major tourist sites and cities vs. venturing off of the beaten path. For those of you who want to cover a lot of ground in a short time, with teenagers in tow, this is the guide for you. We focused our trip on time spent in Rome, Florence, and Venice.
What is the best time of year to travel to Italy?
Although I can’t imagine that there would ever be a bad time of year to visit Italy, Springtime worked out really well for us. The weather was in the ’70s and although we did see some rain, it never impacted our sightseeing. Italian summers are very hot, so if you choose to go then, be prepared for some complaining (if you have kids with you) and for a few places to be closed, as shop owners escape the cities during the peak hot season in August.
How do we get there?
We flew from Minneapolis through Amsterdam to Rome, and then we took the train between Rome/Florence and Florence/Venice. I typically coordinate transfer from the airport to the train station directly with the hotel where we’re staying, as I’ve found that traveling with bags + kids without a plan = trouble. I also do the same with coordinating train travel and whenever possible, coordinate tickets in advance so that we know exactly what we’re doing. Train travel in Europe is actually really convenient and pleasant. The trains are clean, schedules easy to navigate and the seating is quite comfortable. We flew back through Amsterdam from Venice on the way home. When you focus on larger central cities, traveling by planes and trains is the obvious and easy choice.
Where should we stay?
Wherever we travel, we prefer hotels that let us get a good flavor for where we are. More boutique, more unique and more local. The challenge when we travel with our kids is that everyone likes to have their own sleeping space (vs sharing). For those of you who are parents, you probably think that I’m spoiling them. But trust me, this is a very selfish act - if they don’t sleep well, it impacts my day and a grumpy teenager is nothing to mess with! With that limitation, finding rooms or hotels that offer 3 beds is a bit challenging. I searched for larger suites or options where we could add a roll-away.
In Rome, We stayed at the Nerva Boutique hotel right in the heart of Ancient Rome and I would absolutely stay there on another visit! It was central and walkable to almost everything and left us feeling surrounded by Roman culture. The included Italian breakfast was generous, the rooms were sublimely comfortable (albeit small) and the staff was first class. The kids said this was their favorite hotel choice on the trip.
In Florence, We stayed at the Portrait Firenze and it was equally lovely, but in a different more upscale way. The service and amenities were high end and the location was right in the mix of Florence. If you can, request a river view of the Ponte Vecchio.
In Venice, There are several highly rated Vrbo properties for families. We stayed in an “apartment” that was owned and operated by a boutique hotel called Pallazina G. It was not our favorite among the places we stayed, however another luxury apartment option that is highly recommended in the heart of Venice is, Palazzo Ca’nova Venice. Ultimately for us, we would have preferred to tackle Venice in a day trip instead staying overnight.
Rtip: Roam Guide contributor Allison Olson had a tremendous experience staying just outside Venice at Agriturismo Casa De Bertoldi. Which as a bonus, is nicely positioned for a day of alpine hiking along the jagged limestone peaks of Tre Cime Di Lavaredo.
What should we do?
In Rome, We spent two and a half days in Rome. On the first full day, we had a private half-day tour of Ancient Rome, including the Roman Forum, Palatine Hill and the Colosseum. On the second day, we had a private half-day tour of Vatican City including the Vatican Museum, Sistine Chapel and Saint Peter Basilica with the same guide. Our guide, Guisseppe, was amazing, he tailored the tour to the personalities of our family. There are many reputable tour companies but we booked Guisseppe through a recommendation from a friend and we were not disappointed. We learned a ton and had an enjoyable time. I can’t imagine seeing either of these two areas without a guide to explain all that you are experiencing.
On arrival day we just got a lay of the land near our hotel and enjoyed a fun dinner in the neighborhood. After each of our tour days we used the remaining time to explore additional Roman highlights. For example, on the second afternoon, after the Ancient Rome tour, we visited Navona Square, the Spanish Steps, Pantheon, Trevi Fountain. On the third afternoon, post-Vatican City tour, the guys went on the Catacombs of Rome Tour. Alternatively, my daughter and I explored one of Rome’s hippest neighborhood’s Monti, specifically Via del Boschetto, which is packed with boutiques, artisans and ateliers. You can find everything from vintage clothing to handcrafted jewelry. Some notable shops include, An American in Rome, Miki Way, and Perlei, and Blue Goose.
Rtip: A visit to Basilica San Clemente in Rome has also been suggested over and over by Roam Guides who have been to Italy. It’s an 11th century church built on top of a 4th century church, built on top of a 2nd century Pagan Mythrium, built on top of a Roman mint. You move through time as you walk further inside this incredible relic.
In Florence, We secured a personal tour guide in Florence as well, but only for a half day to see the Accademia (including David), the Duomo, and a few other notable sites around town. Our guide, Fredrica was equally wonderful as she was recommended by Guisseppe in Rome. She made the experience of seeing David unimaginably better with the insider information she provided. I would highly recommend private guides for when attempting to experience such incredible landmarks in Italy.
During our first half day in Florence, after taking the train from Rome, we got acquainted with the area, spent time on the Pointe Vecchio bridge (which is packed with interesting shops), visited Pitti Palace and the Giardino di Boboli gardens. The second day, after our guided tour of the Accademia and the Duomo, we spent the afternoon roaming the shops and streets of Florence. We visited The Leather School, a leather workshop and found some great souvenirs. Don’t miss a walk to Piazzale Michelangelo to watch the sunset over the city. You could avoid the long walk by taking a bus at the west end of Ponte alle Grazi but be sure to buy your ticket before boarding.
The third day we had entirely free. I considered booking a day trip from Florence to Pisa and Luca but I’m happy we made the decision to spend all of our time in Florence instead. We walked to the Mercato Centrale for coffee and pastries and then spent time in the Santa Maria Novella area shopping and exploring. The afternoon we spent in the upscale area called Via Tornabuoni where the flagship Gucci store still stands. We ended our time in Florence with dinner nearby at Il Santo Bevitore, which also has a bakery S.forno.
In Venice,We took the train from Florence to Venice and then arranged for a water taxi to take us from the train station to our hotel. As I mentioned before, and with the benefit of hindsight, we’d only be one day in Venice. On our arrival day to Venice, we did the quintessential Gondola tour. We booked the tour directly through our hotel and that helped make the entire experience seamless, picking us up right at the hotel door. It was fantastic and honestly the reason people have to see this amazing little floating city. We ended the evening sitting outside a plaza enjoying some fresh air. On the next full day, we booked a Venetian Islands Boat tour where we visited three islands in the lagoon - Murano, Burano and Torcello. We had an opportunity to tour the famous Murano Glass Factory and to see the beautiful colored buildings of Burano. After the boat tour, we spent time roaming the streets (get comfortable with getting lost), with a stop at the Peggy Guggenheim Museum. It was a small museum but very much worth a visit.
Where did you enjoy good food on your trip?
You’ve likely heard about the amazing food in Italy, and while I enjoyed many of the meals on our trip, I would suggest you temper your expectations a bit if you love Italian. Fortunately, I think we live in a time where we don’t have to travel to find delicious and authentic regional food. Some of the best international chefs have opened restaurants in our own backyard. Nevertheless, we did find a few stand out places that I’d highly recommend, keeping in mind that our family was not looking for white table clothed Michelin star restaurants, but rather exceptional local cuisine.
In Rome,Be sure to try artichokes (carciofo), either stuffed with mint, garlic and procino, or fried. Bucatini and Cacio e Pepe pasta are specialties in this region and pizza is a must. I also suggest you try some of the interesting appetizers (fritti) they have in Rome, from zucchini flowers to battered salt cod to stuffed olives. And don’t forget to have gelato whenever you can. The tip we received from our Rome guide was to avoid gelato that was brightly colored and prepared in large batches. Look for subtle colors and smaller containers.
In Rome, one of our favorites was Colline Emiliane. It was the first meal we had in Italy, the waitress was so engaging and helpful and the food was fantastic. Although, we also were starstruck and starving, so it could have been that too. Emma Pizzeria is a lovely local pizzeria where we had a marvelous appetizer, a cheese filled crocchetta and some fabulous pizza. Another local spot, Antico Forno Roscioli and has a cute Italian market attached to peruse. Here are some other restaurants we considered and heard or read great things about: Flavio Velavevodetto, Felice a Testaccio, for their Cacio e Pepe pasta, Il Sorpasso, Ar Galletto and La Montecarlo.
In Florence,In Florence, grilled meats and seasonal vegetables are the starts. They are known for Crostini di Fegatini (chicken liver spread on garlic bread) and Bistecca Fiorentina ( beef barely cooked). Chianti is the wine of choice here and the Biscotti is delicious. In all parts of Italy, the coffee is fantastic. Here are a few of our favorite spots to grab a bite; Caffe Gilli also for their pastries and classy setting, 4 Leoni a quintessential trattoria, Il Santo Bevitore a hidden gem on a cute cobblestone street, and Mamma Gina Firenze , which is a bit touristy but still worth a visit. Also, if you are in the mood for a drink with a view, Sesto on Arno on the rooftop of the Westin Hotel is the perfect place for that.
In Venice,Venice is known for seafood (usually just served with salt and olive oil), risotto with shellfish or veggies, pasta e fagioli (bean soup with pasta), polenta and Tiramisu. Here are some of the places we enjoyed eating in Venice; Acqua Pazza for Neapolitan pizza on the terrace and Gatto Nero, located on Burano island. Ai Gondolieri, was our favorite and last meal in Venice. It is located right by the Peggy Guggenheim Museum and it was divine!
“The coffee and wine will be exceptional nearly everywhere you go in Italy! I was told to drink coffee everywhere, and the house wine will be a sure thing. I tried this tactic on both fronts and was sure happy I did!”
Where can we do a little shopping?
I love exploring a new city through their shops and cafes and Italy was not a disappointment! Below I’ve outlined some shopping areas to focus your attention and a few specific shops to make a point of visiting.
In Rome, There are several shopping areas in Rome worth exploring; High Street: Via Del Corso and High End: Via Condotti are two areas that run perpendicular to each other. High Street has more standard shops and High End has a strong concentration of luxury brands like Bulgari, Gucci or Chanel. Both lead into more shopping down Via Babuino and around the Spanish Steps. If you are near the Vatican, the main thoroughfare has upmarket chain stores like TwinSet and Falconieri. Italy is known for their leather craftsmanship, so be sure to seek out local artisans like Federico Polidori (near the Pantheon). If you are near Piazza Navona, walk down Via de Governo Veccio, which is lined with nice wine bars and packed with lovely shops. There is a department store across the river called Coin Excelsior and that’s worth a visit if you like larger retailers.
In Florence,Florence shopping is charming and unique. The Leather School (behind the Santa Croce church) has some beautiful leather pieces and the Farmaceutica di Santa Maria Novella is a 16th Century perfumery founded by Dominical friars. Both are super unique. The Via Tornabuoni is a high-end fashion district where the flagship Gucci store is located, in addition to several other amazing brands. Check out Via della Vigna Nuova and Via del Parione for smaller shops and specialty stores.
In Venice, Shopping in Venice was more of a “discover it as you go” kind of experience so it’s difficult to tell you where to shop. There aren’t really concentrations of great shopping - you’ll just need to happen upon it as you go!
What is one thing you would do differently?
There isn’t much that I’d change, as this was meant to be a “sampler” of Italy for our family. I’m happy we spent the time we did in Venice, but I probably would have shortened our time there so we could add in something else. No regrets, though. We will be back to explore this beautiful country further.
What should we pack for the trip?
Cash. Make sure to exchange American dollars at the airport or at your bank pre-departure. You will need currency for small purchases and tips and they simply won't take a credit card (more so than any other country I've traveled to).
Depending on the time of year, I suggest you pack with a layering mentality. The weather can vary widely and you’ll likely be putting on and taking off a layer throughout the day. In the springtime, you will also want to take a cute rain jacket or an umbrella to be prepared. While the Italians are very stylish, it’s not in a showy or overly dressy way. However, I would suggest you leave your sweatpants and logo(ed) sweatshirts at home.
I like to travel with an all-natural essential oil headache remedy by Saje called “Peppermint Halo”. It’s a cooling blend that helps keep my headaches in check from the altitude. It comes in a roller ball that is small enough to pack in a carry-on. Our 18-year old daughter would not go on a long flight without the Trtl Travel Neck Pillow. It holds your neck in place when sleeping on a plane. It looks strange, but she loves it!
Tell us something we don't know?
Meals are more of an experience in Italy and you shouldn’t be in any hurry. Slow down and take it all in.
What is the one can't miss item on your itinerary?
I would not miss a tour guide taking you through Ancient Rome nor a slow roam through the Accademia in Florence, leading up to the statue of David. Both were awe-inspiring.
