Roam Guide / Road Trip to Northern Iceland
Dr. Jenny Lee is a native of Fargo, North Dakota. She studied Biology at UND and went to medical school at the University of Minnesota. As a child, Jenny's family spent as much time as possible at their cabin and camping, fostering her love of the great outdoors. She now shares her passion for nature with her kids who have already visited 12 National Parks! She lives in Minneapolis where she practices Dermatology and is married to her high school sweetheart Greg.
Where did you go on this trip?
We took a road trip from Reykjavík to Akureyri in Northern Iceland and we found the Nordic island spectacular. Most of it’s people live in the capital, Reykjavik, which runs on geothermal power. They are taught English as a second language to Icelandic and welcome the opportunity to engage with foreigners.
What do you think is the best time to visit Iceland?
It matters what you want out of Iceland. If you want to see the Northern Lights, you would go in winter, but prepare for very little daylight. We had originally considered going over Thanksgiving but we are active hikers, so having only five hours of daylight would have made exploring the island difficult for us. Instead, we chose to visit during the summer solstice in June. During this time, you will experience 22 hours of daylight. However to us, those 2 hours felt more like an eternal dawn. The weather was great, sunny with highs between 60 and 74 degrees and dipping into the 40’s at night.
How did you get there?
We flew a direct, non-stop flight on Delta from Minneapolis to Keflavik (KEF). The Keflavik airport is small and easy to navigate. Once we arrived and got our bags and made our way to the car rental station. Be aware, the area around the airport does not do Iceland justice- it’s quite desolate.
“If someone tells me they were in Iceland on a layover at the airport- they were not really in Iceland.”
If you get a rental car make sure you request wi-fi. This will allow you to keep your phone in airplane mode and still use GPS and have the ability to text. If you plan on traveling outside Reykjavik to more remote parts of the island I would suggest getting a 4X4 or an AWD with some clearance. Note to those with rentals, the parking in Reykjavik is not good. I am sure some hotels provide parking but ours did not. We ended up finding a spot in the Hallgrimskirkja Church lot because they allowed public parking and it was only three blocks from our hotel.
“Word to the wise, I highly recommend obeying the speed limit. They will ticket you for speeding remotely and you won’t know how many tickets you have until you get home.”
Where did you stay?
In Reykjavik, we opted for this inexpensive hotel in the city. It wasn’t luxurious but it was comfortable and the location was great. There are plenty of beautiful hotels in the city center, like the Hilton Canopy or the Apotek Hotel. The city is small and walkable no matter where you choose to stay. You could easily stay in Reykjavik for your entire trip and book day excursions, but keep in mind that the island is expansive so traveling any distance will include significant travel time. We opted to stay two nights and then take off into the wilderness on our own, so we could make impromptu stops along the way. There are important geographical wonders that that we didn’t want to miss.
The first night out of Reykjavik we stayed in Blondous, after visiting the Glymur waterfall. The hotel was cute but the town was remote and seemed deserted. In hindsight we should have stayed in Borgarnes on this leg of our trip as well.
We ended up staying in Borgarnes for two nights on our way back the coast to visit the Snaefellsnes peninsula. I had tried to reserve the Hotel Hafnafjall but there was no availability, so instead we stayed in a rental just outside of town. I did find a rental great for families, unfortunately, it is no longer available. Another option is the B59 Hotel right in the city center.
Once we reached Northern Iceland we stayed for three nights in Akureyri. The VRBO we choose allowed for easy access to the areas we wanted to visit. If you prefer a hotel, I would take a look at the Hótel Laxá. It’s a little outside of town but the views are stunning and it’s in wonderful proximity to all the sites.
Our final night we stayed at a hostel by the airport. If we go again, we would stay in Reykjanesbær on our way back. The quaint boutique Hotel Berg is only five minutes from the airport and offers more variety.
What did you do?
In and around Reykjavik, To get acquainted with the city we set out on what we call, “an urban hike.” Basically, we grabbed a city map and selected a few places to stop along the way. One of the highlights was the Hallgrimskirk Church, an impressive pyramid-like structure that offered splendid views of the city from the top. We also enjoyed strolling along the stone path of the iconic TJornin Pond, home to countless water birds. Overfed by adorable little locals, the lagoon is aptly nicknamed, “the world’s largest bread soup.” We also found all kinds of statues around town which allowed us to learn more about Iclandic history. My daughter Ana is a violinist, so we always try to seek out the local Orchestra Hall. From Reykjavik’s Harpa Concert Hall you can follow the shore walk along the water and admire the local sculptures, like the popular Sun Voyager, framed by the majestic Kollafjörður fjord and the nearby mountain range.
There is no shortage of museums to visit in the city, so with limited time we chose to visit the whale museum and paired that with a whale watching tour. We opted for the smaller zodiac boat on our tour because it sits closer to the water, so you can feel the waves, see the sea birds and get better views of the Minke Whales and dolphins.
Rtip: Co-founder Katie Lang had the opportunity to explore Landmannalaugar, a breathtaking region in the highlands of Iceland, renowned for its colorful landscapes, geothermal activity, and world-class hiking trails. This area is primarily accessible by 4x4 vehicles due to the rugged F-roads. For a seamless experience, contact Ready & Roam for a private guided tour, or book a small group tour here. Landmannalaugar is also home to the Laugavegur Trail, one of Iceland's most famous hiking routes that spans from Landmannalaugar to Þórsmörk, a must-do multi-day trek on many adventurers' bucket lists.
After two nights in Reykjavik, instead of making the 5 hour drive all the way to Akureyri, in Northern Iceland, we took a detour to hike the Glymur Waterfalls, the country’s 2nd highest waterfall. All I can say is WOW, this place was truly incredible. Hidden in plain sight Glymur, was absolutely worth the diversion. I say diversion because years ago, a tunnel was constructed under the Hvalfjörður fjord, shortening the road between Reykjavik and Borganes, and in the process cutting off the area where you’ll find Glymur. Keep in mind for those of you with little kids or physical limitations, the hike includes a log crossing and a short but steep wire climb. It will take you two or three hours on foot to reach this impressive cascade surrounded by green, mossy cliffs but you won’t regret it if you do.
“We’ve had the opportunity to hike many beautiful trails around the world and we were all awestruck by this natural marvel.”
After the Glymur waterfall excursion we drove to Borgarnes for a late lunch at the Settlement Center. The onsite museum offers exhibitions unique to Iceland’s heritage. From there we continued North to the Glanni Waterfall, and on to hike to the nearby Grabrok Craters. The view of the volcanic pits in this area feels almost otherworldly.
After exploring the area we continued driving to the tiny seaside village of Blonduous to spend the night. Early the next day we completed our road trip to Akureyri. We spent three nights in this neat town, but mostly explored the surrounding area.
Rtip: Between Blonduous and Akureyri, you’ll find the traditional turf houses of Skagafjörður. Look specifically for Glaumbær farm. If you are a lover of old houses this should not be missed when travelling in Northern Iceland.
In and around Akureyri,We started our exploration at the Hverir Geothermal Fields, near Myvatn Lake where the bubbling mud pots and steaming fumaroles dot the landscape. To us it felt a bit like Mars. After that we headed to the Dettifoss waterfall, and on to the more remote and majestic Selfoss waterfall. Keep in mind, you will get wet at both (from the mist), so make sure to wear rain gear. Following the waterfalls, we made the short drive to The Hafragilsfoss Lookout for a bird’s eye view of Akureyri, and the river that feeds both waterfalls. On our way back to town we found the Heiðmörk Nature Reserve where we decided to visit the Raudholar Red Hill Craters, estimated to be 5200 years old. Can you imagine? While in this area we also took the opportunity to visit the Hljodaklettar Basalt Rocks, a series of basalt columns lying in different directions creating unique, puzzle-like formation.
On our second day we drove to see the Godafoss Waterfall, which is very close to the parking lot so no hiking required. From there we continued driving the Ring Road to Dimmuborgir where we explored the unusually shaped lava rock formations and volcanic caves, reminiscent of stepping into another world. My kids thought it felt like Lord of the Rings. Then we hopped back in the car to drive to the Grjotagja Fissure, a clear blue, cave pool. Once used for bathing, the pool’s temperature has since risen to dangerous levels due to a nearby volcanic eruption.
“No matter how much you want to jump in to this stunning pool, without warning it could boil you like an egg.”
Next we took in the magnificent views at Lake Viti, and enjoyed a geothermal tour of the power plant nearby. They offered us warm beverages and an educational video - short and sweet. We ended the day at the Myvatn Nature Baths, a picturesque hot springs with a soft sand bottom. Less crowded than the Blue Lagoon in SW Iceland and just as beautiful, warm and relaxing. However I did learn that the Blue Lagoon now offers an exclusive experience at The Retreat, which provides a more private hot springs escape.
On day three we headed back to the west coast to stay in Borgeness for two nights and take in the sights of the Snaefellsnes Peninsula. The main attractions here include Mt. Kirkjufell and the Kirkjufellsfoss waterfall due to their season seven Game of Thrones appearance. There are lava fields, islands, and if you decide to travel into the heart of the peninsula, you can climb a glacier! You can even hire a company to bring you up the Snæfellsjökull glacier to ski back down — on our list for next time! We ended our day at Ytri Tunga Beach and sat for hours watching the seals swim, play and sun themselves on the rocks.
On our final trek towards the airport we stopped at Kleifarvatn Lake on the Reykjanes Peninsula to hike around the Krisuvik Seltun geothermal area. There is a groomed trail that takes 20 minutes to complete, or you can keep going for an hour hike through the hills. We opted for the longer hike and it was quite beautiful. For lunch we had fish n chips at Papas Pizza on our way to the Reykjanesviti Lighthouse. If you have time, just east of here you’ll find the Gunnuhver Hot Springs.
Where did you find good food?
In Iceland, there are more sheep than people, so lamb is one of the most popular foods in the country. For that reason, it would make sense to order a bowl Kjötsupa, a traditional lamb soup or lamb chops on your visit. Or if you prefer fish, like me, order Salmon. It is well known that Salmon fishing is one of the biggest industries in Iceland, and the quality, portion size and taste of the fish is extraordinary. My friend who grew up in Iceland told me that the fermented shark is a touristy fad and no one eats it anymore.
Believe it or not, some of our best meals came from rest areas and gas stations. Delicious smoked salmon on homemade bread, soups and cakes served on real plates with real silverware. A far cry from our gas station plastic wrapped egg sandwiches with a four month shelf life.
Icelanders also love coffee and you’ll find a shop on almost every corner. Their coffee is strong and flavorful. Pair it with a flaky, buttery croissant and you have the perfect start to your day.
“The food in Iceland is fantastic! Anyone who says otherwise, simply ate at the wrong places.”
In Reykjavik, The best restaurant I have ever been to IN MY LIFE....is Sumac Grill. Fresh, flavorful, out of this world Middle Eastern cuisine in an architecturally stunning restaurant. We choose the seven course tasting menu and savored every single morsel.
“I would fly back to Iceland just to eat at Sumac again.”
In front of the Hallgrimskirk Church is a little stand called Voffluvagninn that makes the yummiest waffles. We ordered one for the kids with the intention to share and went back for more again the next morning. It was the tastiest waffle I have ever eaten, with real whipped cream and a caramelized, sugary crust. From sweet to savory, if you see Baejarins Beztu Pylsur, don’t walk by without trying one of their famous hot dogs with “the works.”
In Borgarnes, We stopped at B59 Hotel for dinner and it was delicious. They served generous portions of fish we all could share.
In Akureyri, Vogafjos Farm Resort, as the name suggests, is a true farm to table restaurant, the cows are kept in a room attached to the restaurant so you can visit them. My kids loved it. They also have a cute guest house for overnight visits.
Rtip: No profession in Iceland accepts tips. Instead the service charge is built into the prices and employee wages. Round up if you will but it’s not necessary.
What would you differently next time?
If you are going straight to Akureyri from from Reykjavik, it is about a five hour drive. We choose to make a detour so we could hike the Glymur Waterfall. As I mentioned this was 100% worth it, but in hindsight, we should have lingered in Borgarnes after our hike, instead of heading further north and staying in Blondous.
What is the one can't miss item on your Iceland itinerary?
Everything really. But if I had to choose, don’t miss having dinner at Sumac. I just recommended it to a friend, who I would consider a foodie, and they were absolutely blown away.
What should we bring with us?
Ear plugs and a sleep mask, I used both of these and had no problem sleeping, even with the extended daylight hours. Rain gear if you are visiting the waterfalls as well as hiking boots and warm socks, if you plan on exploring the trails. Oh, and layers, always layers.
Tell us something we don't know?
Rugbraud or Rye bread is an Icelandic bread, traditionally baked in the ground and heated from a Geyser. It’s heavy, flavorful and delicious. Have a piece slathered with lots of butter, which is also phenomenal. I was asked many times, if I wanted any bread with my butter?
Rtip: With multiple locations the best place to try this incredible bread is at Brauo & co along with any other delicious baked good you can imagine.
