Roam Guide / Bora Bora
Cassidy is an adventure-loving off-season traveler who lives at the edge of the Boundary Waters with her husband and their Australian Shepherd, Bosley. Together they run a Canoe Outfitter and are very passionate about sharing the outdoors with as many people as possible. Fostering connections with the wilderness defines their day to day, and being able to explore the world in the off season allows them to connect with other cultures in all the best ways. They have been consistently traveling every fall for several years and enjoy discovering new places to explore. Soon they'll be discovering the world through the eyes of a child, as Cassidy is pregnant with twins!
Where did you go?
Bora BoraA quick google search of, “most relaxing honeymoon spots” led us to a trip we never considered possible. A few months later we were headed to the French Polynesian islands for our honeymoon. More specifically we visited the dreamy islands of Bora Bora and Tikehau.
French Polynesia consists of 6 archipelagos on the continent of Oceania. Of its 118 islands, 67 are inhabited, Tahiti being the most populous with 70% of the county’s residents. The group of islands sits halfway between South America and Australia, due south of Hawaii. While the appeal is obvious, planning a trip there is actually more elusive than you might think.
How did you arrive?
We flew from Minneapolis to Los Angeles, which is the U.S "hub" for travel to the South Pacific. From LAX it’s an eight hour direct flight to Tahiti (twice as far as Hawaii). While most of the time the idea of an 8 hour flight is daunting, I was pleasantly surprised by Air Tahiti Nui which I found to be one of the most comfortable planes I’ve flown. Once we arrived in Papeete, Tahiti we flew to the nearby island of Bora Bora where we spent six nights of pure relaxation. The kind of downtime I didn’t even know existed. On our last night we flew to the island of Tikehau, which translated means "peaceful landing," and that is exactly what it was. We spent an additional five blissful nights there before heading back to the US, again by way of Papeete. If you want to bounce between the isles of French Polynesia, domestic flights will run you about $200 usd.
Rtip: Alternatively you can fly United out of SFO, where budget airline Frenchbee also offered affordable pre-pandemic flights to Tahiti.
“The 10 days we spent in French Polynesia were unworldly. I felt like I was in a movie the moment we stepped off the plane.”
When do you think we should visit?
I truly believe the best time to travel to French Polynesia is not necessarily when you read is the ideal time. We found so many online articles that basically told us we were visiting during the rainy season and it would be pouring rain every day.
While I imagine that may happen at times, it was quite literally the opposite of what we experienced. We found it to rain less than 10 minutes a day. In addition to having less precipitation than we expected, the off-season provided us with fewer crowds and less heat. The temps averaged 80 degrees Fahrenheit, which was all my Minnesota bones needed and finding reduced tourists at the resort made it all the more enchanting.
We almost always travel during the off-season anyway because we work in the tourism industry. Running a resort we find our time off is usually when others aren’t traveling. We’ve grown to love visiting destinations when they are more accessible, less overwrought with people, and generally more affordable. We could write a book on why "off-season" travel is best, but I’ll save that for another time. When we were in Bora Bora we met some wonderful locals who were able to confirm our delight in the off-season -- confirmation enough.
To answer the question, I’d say the end of October to late November, or in April. The weather is slightly cooler with less rain from May through September, but you’ll be there with everyone else. December to March holds a legitimate risk of rain and increased mosquitos.
Where should we consider staying?
When researching French Polynesia as a first timer, you’ll likely find yourself overwhelmed with options. Early in the planning stage we decided to go straight to the experts at Tahiti.com, where we found a wealth of knowledge to help us zero in on exactly what we were looking for. We ended up with a trip that favored the type of adventure we wanted to experience, over the variety of places we thought we wanted to visit. If you’re the kind of traveler who has a specific island in mind, I’d say it’s still a good place to start.
20 years ago Ready & Roam co-founder spent her honeymoon in Bora Bora at the former Pearl Beach Resort. She utilized a travel destination management company, Tahiti Legends, and enjoyed a similarly spectacular experience. Using a partner on the ground is the most affordable way to go because they have generally negotiated prices, and it allows you to book a package that can include a combination of hotels and flights.
Le Bora Bora by Pearl Resorts / website
The former Pearl Beach Resort reopened in April of 2020 as a four-star member of Relais & Châteaux. Start to finish it was an unforgettable stay in paradise. Greeted by staff upon landing, you travel by boat to the resort. Such a joyful and unique way to begin your vacation. We chose to stay in their beachside villa which had its own private pool and the most amazing view of the sunrise. I know that the overwater bungalows are at the top of many bucket lists, but at this particular resort I would actually recommend the beachside villas for the expansive amenities and size.
Rtip: Be sure to bring along a change of clothing. When traveling from anywhere cold, it’s nice to have more temperature appropriate for when you first arrive.
Tikehau Pearl Beach Resort / website
In wrapping up our vacation we spent five nights on Tikehau at another Pearl Beach property. It was truly a remote and relaxing experience and it was here we decided to take advantage of the overwater bungalows. A decision we are thankful for as it’s quite an unreal opportunity to be able to swim in the ocean directly off your private deck.
I will always suggest a visit to French Polynesia including two islands, two resorts, and two different styles of accommodations. This is the most amazing way to get the best of both worlds.
Rtip: If you can arrange a few nights in Papette before or after your time in Bora Bora, it’s magical to arrange a mini vacation within your vacation to look forward to. It is very easy to navigate the island with only one coastline road. Just make note. there are no formal street addresses, only locations identified as PK (points kilometers), which represent the distance in kilometers from the Papeete cathedral. If you decide to stay in Papette we love the boutique property Manava Suite Resort Tahiti.
What should we do when we’re there?
French Polynesia is known for romance and relaxation. But in addition to marveling at our surroundings and decompressing from the everyday, it was important for us to spend time snorkeling in the crystal clear lagoons and to enjoy a sunset cruise. We are also avid hikers who enjoy being outside, so we made it a point to hike in Bora Bora. The Faanui Canon Lookout has beautiful vistas and amazing views from above, as well as enormous artillery cannons remaining from WWII, interesting remnants of the past. If you are a water sports junkie then you’ll be in heaven in Bora Bora, but there are also cooking classes, cultural activities and you can swim with sharks and manta rays . The local guides are out of this world friendly and you will undoubtedly get everything you are looking for out of any experience you book on the water. The staff at your resort can make all the arrangements on site so no worries about booking ahead of time.
Rtip: You can visit other inlets or resorts within Bora Bora via a water taxi which typically costs around $50 a person. Look into any opportunity you may have to enjoy a private snorkeling excursion and a grilled seafood lunch on a private beach (motu) for a picnic to remember. It’s decadent, memorable and romantic.
What should make sure to eat?
Just because you’ll want to linger each morning, I highly recommend you include breakfast in your room rate. We had an amazing breakfast each morning at the resort. There are no all-inclusive plans in Bora Bora, but half board or bed and breakfast included is quite common. Lunch was often enjoyed poolside and dinners onsite. We savored every bite of the five decadent courses each night.
I made a pact with myself before taking this trip to get adventurous with my seafood choices, and that is exactly what I did. Squid and Ahi tuna were my favorites and both can be enjoyed in a traditional Poisson cru, which translated from French just means "raw fish.” It is considered to be the national dish of the islands and is similar to ceviche.
Fresh fish is of course plentiful on an island, but being a French territory the Taitians do European cuisine very well. There are some restaurants in the village of Vaitape and a quick trip advisor search will yield all 30 choices. Notable favorites include the brick oven pizza at the Lucky House Manuia Restaurant and longtime island hero, Bloody Marys. You can certainly visit other resorts for a meal but it’s perfectly acceptable to just stay put.
Rtip: If you spend any time in the capital city of Pape'ete, Ready & Roam insists you visit Les 3 Brasseurs microbrew, as well as enjoy a fondue dinner mountainside at O Belvédère.
Where can we grab a good cocktail?
Similar to the dining situation in Bora Bora, most of your afternoon cocktailing will be done at the resort. Of course, many of the paradise staples are mixed fresh, like the scratch-made Pina Colada that I enjoyed almost every day. Go for anything made with fresh coconut water. It’s exceptionally hydrating and extremely refreshing. We did take the liberty of grabbing a case of beer in the village to save money but we also loved the atmosphere (and the excuse to dress up) at the hotel bar. It’s commonplace to spend happy hour socializing with other guests so don’t be alarmed if someone sits down with you to commiserate.
Where can we do some shopping?
Bora Bora is not a destination known for its shopping but we did make time to visit the village and look around. The shops are small and few so it doesn't take much time to digest the whole area. I did support the island with a purchase of a locally made dress that is now one of my favorite vacation pieces. Look for the traditional Tahitian floral crowns they call, “Hei Upo’o.” at the local markets. You’ll want to purchase one of these ornate and fragrant crowns as often as possible on your trip.
Our time on the island was more about seeing and experiencing the culture of Bora Bora and we were thankful for the opportunity to do that. Their way of life is something I’ll carry with me forever.
What is the can’t miss item on your itinerary?
Make sure wherever you end up and however you design your trip, you spend time on the island of Bora Bora. Be adventurous with your food and ask questions. The way of life there is relaxed and intentional, and I truly believe it is a place everyone should experience in their lifetime.
What should we bring home with us in our suitcase?
Besides the obvious Tahitian Vanilla, we discovered our now beloved Tamanu Oil. As it happens we ended up very sunburnt one day, and this magic oil cured our painful red skin.
Alternatively, what should we take with us on the trip?
The most essential travel item when visiting somewhere tropical (even in the off-season) is sunscreen. We were naïve in our sunscreen selection and only brought 20spf, but the sun is much stronger there so I recommend bringing along (and using) spf 50. I also suggest packing loose-fitting clothing, flowy dresses and a shoe that can be worn in the water like Chaco’s. We went on plenty of beach walks that turned into hikes through less maintained areas, around coral, and in deeper waters. A couple of final items to consider are Sunglasses, a backpack, I carried mine from North Star Stitching everywhere we went. Don’t forget a book or two, and some playing cards.
Tell us something you learned about the destination.
Nearly everyone in ancient Polynesian society was tattooed. Historically there was no writing in the culture so tattoo art was used to indicate status, sexual maturity and genealogy. Traditional placement, process and design played an important role in religious rituals and warfare.
What would you do differently next time?
If we were to do this trip again we would mix it up by branching out for our second destination. I think we’d likely consider the island of Moorea where there are more land-based activities (ATV tours, hikes, etc.) We would also make time to go scuba diving. It’s a dream of ours, and it will be a priority in our next itinerary. Getting the lay of the land, so to speak, on your first adventure is a wonderful way to take in the islands. You really can’t make a mistake.
