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Where

Ireland, Part 1 | The Stunning Southwest

County Clare, County Kerry, County Cork, County Limerick

With wild and rugged landscapes, sea cliffs and mountain ranges, surf waves and beach strands, quiet harbours and quaint villages brimming with heaps Irish charm, excellent food and hospitality topped off with a perfect pint of creamy stout; the southwest region of Ireland is a forever favourite among visitors from every corner of the world. 

“Oh Ireland. I will never cease to be in awe of the pure candor of your tumultuous beauty… especially when I get to share you with my family and friends. A sacred place that must be seen to be believed.” - Imen McDonnell

Plan

Visit: Year-round with April-October being the best months to see Ireland. 

Irish weather is mild like that of Seattle, and you can usually count on rain at least once in the day for most of the year. In Jan/Feb a lot of restaurants and hotels shut down for their yearly break so be sure you have bookings in advance. November – February you may experience more unsettled weather -- gale storms with high wind gusts and heavier rain can be common. The best way to arrive in Southwest Ireland is to fly into Shannon Airport (County Clare) to be most central to explore this area of Ireland. But, Cork and Dublin airports are easy too. Ireland is about the same size as Indiana. You can travel from one end of the island to the other in 5-6 hours and get to many popular sites across the country in day trips from wherever your base camp may be located. Be sure and reserve your rental car early. Many dealers can be sold out during the high season. I always recommend opting for an automatic transmission as driving on the left side of the road is hard enough to get used to, let alone learning how to shift with the opposite hand!

Rtip: Allow extra time at the airport. Dublin is one of the few airports outside North America that makes you clear customs before departing for the U.S. Both Delta and Aer Lingus (as of July 2019 ) fly non-stop from MSP to Dublin.

Learn

The Republic of Ireland includes 26 counties which make up the southern part of the country. There are also six counties in Northern Ireland, which is technically geographically part of the United Kingdom, however, most Irish people would consider all 32 counties simply Ireland" It can be a bit confusing so bone up on your history before you visit. The Irish are very proud and they fought hard for their independence from England.

Stay

Choose from old-fashioned homespun Irish B&Bs to small inns, farm stays, and private castles, on up to 5-star castles fit for a king, or luxurious spa/hotel resorts. Airbnb is another great way to go, especially when traveling as a family. Here are my top choices to stay when I am traveling in this part of Ireland. 

*indicates an R&R selection preference.

County Clare 

Inside County Clare you’ll find the smallest of Ireland’s six national parks, The Burren. Many visitors come here to enjoy the park on foot or by bike. Nearby you’ll find the Cliffs of Moher, some of the most dramatic cliffs in all of Europe. The rocky cliff-side offers spectacular views towards the Aran Islands — located off the coast of the Burren and well known for their traditional way of life. The area is also home to many different species of wildlife. In The Burren, you’ll discover two lovely options for accommodation:

• Gregans Castle Hotel - This classic countryside hotel offers understated charm, an on-site restaurant, and it welcomes families.*

• Wild Honey Inn - In the heart of a town called Lisdoonvarna, you’ll find this simple and elegant local inn. It is adults only and boast’s Ireland's first Michelin Star Pub.

• The Cliffs of Moher Retreat - If you want an experience that offers more structured access to the area or you are considering a girl’s trip, check out the yoga and wellness retreats offered here.

Another option to consider in County Clare would be the historic splendor found at a countryside estate:

• Dromoland Castle - This hideaway is the former home of a noble Irish family. It’s a preferred and historic property and it’s expansive! It is the epitome of castle living filled with secret grottos, magnificent lakes, walled gardens and a championship golf course.

A final option would be to sleep to the sounds of the sea at Kilbaha cottage. Uniquely perched on one end of Kilbaha Bay in Loop Head, this amazing seaside lodge offers easy access to both The Cliffs of Moher and The Burren. Also on the Loop Head Peninsula is the newly refurbished Stella Maris Hotel in Kilkee.

County Kerry

In County Kerry, you might decide to stay somewhere you can overlook the incredible Lakes of Killarney. Three fabulous choices near the water include:

• The Europe Hotel and Resort - The swoon worthy views at this opulent 5 star property are quite remarkable. The price tag while steep, it remains fair once you’ve enjoyed the luxury amenities, high-end dining and unbelievable location.

• The Lake Hotel - This refined but comfortable, family run historical hotel is lovely, albeit larger than you might imagine. The location is perfect, with a 12th Century floodlit Castle on the hotel grounds and only minutes of Killarney town.

• Cahernane House Hotel - The charm is in the details. This private estate on the edge of Killarney National Park, is known as “Killarney's Best Kept Secret,” from the coveted interior decor to the original restored spaces this is a quiet four start retreat.*

If you are more keen on an authentic and private escape, consider staying in the outskirts of Killarney at The Coolclogher House, where you’ll experience a home base that’s both luxurious and intimate.

As you move out from lakes district of Killarney and the national park, there are some equally beautiful and historic hotels to consider. Again if you want to be on the water, this time the bays and inlets of the Atlantic, suggestions include, Kenmare Bay properties:

• Parknasilla Resort & Spa

• Park Hotel Kenmare

• Drommquinna Manor

• The Lansdowne

As well as other Kerry guesthouses such as,

• Dingle Benners Hotel

• Castlewood House, Dingle

• Barrow House, Fenit

And the best of Airbnb,

• Chez Gypsy Wagon - This restored Gypsy Wagon is part of a glamping site near Healy Pass on the border of County Cork. With a one bedroom sister caravan near by, this would be a fun spot between destinations as you explore all Southern Ireland has to offer.

• The Boathouse on Valentia Island - Right on the beach and perfect for families. This 2 bedroom will make you feel like Ireland is your home.

But if what you’re really after is a fairy tale stay in a grand castle surrounded by expansive grounds, gardens and woodland, then Ballyseede Castle is exactly where you want to be in county Kerry.

County Cork 

On the border of Country Kerry near the Healy Pass, you’ll find the Glengarriff Woods Nature Preserve, an enchanting area, home to the Glengarriff Lodge. This magical woodland retreat is a former hunting lodge, that’s now run as a self-serving five bedroom rental property. Completely isolated on 50 acres, this thatched roof cottage is the perfect escape for those who want a private experience and extra time to reflect with nature.

East Cork | Shangarry

• Ballymaloe House - A leading property in this part of Ireland for many years this country house, hotel and restaurant is celebrated as one of the best places to experience farm to table eating and un-assuming Irish hospitality.

• Barnabrow House - These humble holiday cottages and country house in the rolling hills of East Cork.

• BallyshaneStays - If you are looking for a quaint and affordable airbnb option, check out this unique studio near the secluded shores of Ireland's south coast

West Cork | Skibbereen

• Liss ard Estate - This enchanting B&B also runs a modern lake house lodge for 20, perfect for retreats and group events. The gardens and restaurants provide a beautiful setting.

• Glebe Country House - Once a rectory this charming inn offers relatively un-assuming but cozy apartments on a garden-filled property near the Ballinadee village and creek. It’s an affordable, 4-star hidden gem.

If you imagine yourself in more of a traditional boutique hotel property, or you want to be near the center of town, close to the action, then Blue Haven is your spot. Located in Kinsale, just south of Cork towards the water, this 16-room inn is open year-round.

North Cork | rural countryside

• Longueville House, Ballyclough - A 300-year-old Georgian Country House hidden on a 450-acre estate is the epitome of rural luxury. There are only 16 bedrooms in this exclusive family-run manor that’s classic but informal and historical yet un-fussy.

• Ballyvolane House, Fermoy - This is a classic Irish Country House where you imagine generations have come to salmon fish and pheasant hunt. Where the food is from the earth, the meat from the farm, and the gin is distilled on property. Filled with history and legends this place is a stunner and well appointed to meet your needs for an extended stay.*

“ The Ballyvolane House proprietor’s Justin and Jenny Greene are the consummate hosts. It is their home too, so it’s super cozy while still being impeccably appointed.”

County Limerick 

Alternatively, you could choose to stay in my neck of the woods. Very soon at our historic thatched cottage with three bedrooms and a loft, twenty minutes from the village of Adare. You can follow our restoration project here and at #ouririshfixerupper, with an opportunity to visit coming very soon!

• Rigney’s Farm - You can also experience county life by staying at a nearby working farm. Rigney’s farmhouse B&B will share a pastoral tradition that goes back centuries. An overnight her will prove exactly as you’d imagine, with a homegrown breakfast and treasured access to free-range animals, among acres of pristine countryside.

• Glin Castle - To my west, there is an opposite opportunity, to stay on the banks of the Shannon among unimaginable beauty and historic privilege. Available only for private letting, this 800-year-old family home is impeccably decorated and well-tended. Perfect for small group occasions and a wonderful way to experience the unique Irish aristocratic lifestyle of a time gone by.

• Adare Manor - You may as well choose to overnight in this timeless Georgian mansion. Home of the 2026 Ryder Cup, this place is a Neo-Gothic architectural gem situated on 840 acres of sweeping park lands, formal gardens, ancient trees and the River Maigue running through it all. You can just as easily opt to stay right outside the castle gates at The Dunraven Hotel in the village of Adare.

• The Mustard Seed - A little south of Adare you’ll find a Victorian Country House boasting private, well appointed rooms tucked throughout a historic building, schoolhouse and a mews apartment. Set in the charming Limerick countryside and home to a restaurant you’ll want on your list even if you’re not staying there.

• One Pery Square - If you want to stay in the center of Limerick I suggest you book at this historic boutique hotel & spa, ideally located in the Georgian Quarter neighborhood. Inside this fully-restored, characterful, luxury townhouse you’ll find a scratch kitchen, a artisan wine shop and a wellness retreat.

Rtip: If you’re after luxury spas, staying in Country Limerick is the way to go with wonderful choices like, the 111SPA rituals offered at The Spa at Adare Manor or the VOYA organic Spa at #1 Pery Square.

Explore

There are worlds to experience throughout Ireland, and this coastal region boasts many extraordinary things to do. From fly-fishing with a *ghillie to golfing on wild seaside links, catching surf waves, or just lounging on a beach; climb a mountain or kiss the Blarney Stone, you certainly will be spoiled for choice. Oh, and don’t miss a pub with a traditional music and dance session, there are many to choose from wherever the road takes you in this part of the country. Here is my personal list of must-do experiences when visiting the Southwest of Ireland.

*'Ghillie' is Gaelic for man-servant, and this is essentially what the role entails. The Ghillie is your personal assistant while you are fishing with centuries of history behind him.

County Clare

The highlight of this region has to be the Cliffs of Moher and the Burren National Park both near to many of the recommended places to stay. Within this area, specific exploration extends to the following highly suggested activities from April - November.

On Water

While the air temperature rarely exceeds 25 °C (77 °F) Ireland has become increasingly popular as a surfing destination due to the turbulent Atlantic coast. You can test your skills or learn a new one at Lahinch Surf School. You can also take in the Aran Islands and The Cliffs of Moher on a Boat Cruise. If you really enjoy being on the water I would suggest Deep Sea Fishing in some of the richest waters in Ireland. County Clare is renowned for mackerel as well as larger species of white fish, bottom feeders, conger eels, and sharks! If you’re a watcher not a doer when it comes to adventure, you can opt for wildlife and dolphin sighting from the deck of a Guided Boat Tour. You can also fish for salmon and sea trout a bit further inland at Doo Lough (Black Lake), one of the deepest lakes in Ireland.

On Land

In the same charming seaside town as the surfing opportunities mentioned above, you’ll find Lahinch Golf Club, a world-class links course in the most scenic of settings. This area is considered a golfers paradise but it’s also home to the most complete and authentic Medieval castle in all of Ireland, Bunratty Castle. Here you’ll also find the impressive rural Folk Park, filled with furnished farmhouses, recreated storefronts, and village streets; giving you a glimpse into Ireland's storied past. If it’s history you’re after, you must also experience Fanore Beach in The Burren. The sand dune geo-site is the oldest archaeological remains in the area, and the large sandy beach and spectacularly clear water are also popular with walkers, swimmers, and experienced surfers. Alternatively, you can walk the Flaggy Shore’s half mile of coastline that stretches from New Quay to Finavarra Point. The cobbles and boulders along the shore are a geologist’s dream and a hiker’s paradise. If you’d prefer to ride, Mountain View Beach Rides, offers rides on horseback along the sand and into the surf of Ireland's rugged West Coast.

And don’t forget, the Burren National Park is truly the most geographically diverse in terms of landscape, flora, and fauna in all of Ireland. The best way to experience it is on the most amazing private educational walk with The Burren Botanist, Sinead Keane.

County Kerry

The flora and fauna of County Kerry has got to be the most spectacular and varied of landscapes in all of southwest, Ireland. If you are into windswept vistas and spending time outdoors, this area of exploration will exceed your expectations. It includes remote ancient islands, world-famous heritage sites and sandy shores brimming with fresh fish.

Ring of Kerry

Top of the list in this region has got to be the Ring of Kerry. An iconic road, considered to be among the most scenic in the world. Imagine Hwy 1 on California’s coastline, the Road to Hana in Maui, Chapman’s Peak Drive in South Africa, or Route 1 in Iceland — All covered in Roam Guides for inspiration and exploration. Similarly the Ring of Kerry chases wild red deer and roaring waterfalls through rugged landscapes, majestic forests and dramatic skylines the epic Atlantic coastline. Among its beauty, you’ll find Ireland’s oldest national park, Killarney National Park. Within the National Park you’ll find Muckross House and Farm, where I highly recommend you spend some time getting your bearings and learning about Irish tradition.

• Hike - Very near to Kilarney National Park is Carrauntoohill mountain, one of the tallest peaks in Ireland. It is here you can really get your bearings by taking a guided hike or walk through the Irish hillside. If you are up for a challenge go ahead and Climb Carrauntoohil by the Devils Ladder which is a difficult but straightforward route to the top. Otherwise you can opt for the Strickeen (Struicín) mountain route, a more accessible and moderate hike up MacGillicuddy’s Reeks.

Dingle Peninsula

The spectacular Dingle Peninsula is best experienced in its entirety. Venture along Slea Head Drive, one of Ireland’s most scenic routes. Make your way through Conor Pass, one of the highest mountain passes in Ireland. And finally head into the buzzing fishing village of Dingle. The peninsula area offers breathtakingly beautiful hikes and stunningly deserted beaches. In town, you can find a traditional pub, or tour a whiskey distillery. In the summer, from here you can take a ferry across to the stunning and remote Blasket Islands.

• Tour - Consider exploring the Maharees coastline at Castlegregory’s beach by horseback with O’Connors Beach Trekking. This family run company offers escorted riding for all ages.

• Tour - If remote islands offering unparalleled majestic landscapes are on your list, then you’ll also want to make time to visit Skelligs Michael in southwest Kerry. In fact, the last two Star Wars installments were filmed here. On the summit of the island’s rock formation, you will find a sixth-century monastic settlement, and in the surround you will see native and rare bird life. Eco tours depart from the marina in Portmagee, April - September weather dependent.

As if that’s not enough, north towards County Clare you’ll want to detour to Ballybunnion, where traditional Irish leisure activities await. You can play one of two world-class Irish golf courses along the Atlantic, or you can opt for the long-standing and popular hot seaweed bath experience at Collins’ Seaweed Baths near Nun’s Beach in Ballybunion.

“Only in Ireland will you find the gorgeous (but also death defying) secret paradise called “Nun’s Beach” Second, only to the beach are the best seaweed baths you can imagine.”

County Cork 

Of all Ireland’s Southwest this is the county that gets the most press. Home of Jameson Whiskey, the Titanic Experience Exhibit, and the Blarney Stone, one of Ireland’s greatest treasures. The variety of things to see and do will keep you busy for days and allow a nice taste of what Ireland has to offer.

Near Water

The islands and peninsulas just west of Cork offer a landscape only understood from experience. Garnish Island for instance is an isolated garden paradise off Bantry Bay. The ferry to get there includes a stop at a seal colony. Dursey Island, on the western tip of the Beara Peninsula, is one of the few inhabited islands you can visit in all of Ireland. The island is connected to the mainland by Ireland's only cable car, which runs over a narrow stretch of water called the Dursey Sound. If hiking the peaceful and unspoiled coastline is your ideal afternoon, consider the trails of Sheep’s Head Peninsula where there are three loop trails you can tackle in only three hours. Alternatively, the Ballycotton Cliff Walk near Barnabrow House in East Cork is also a spectacular hike.

County Cork, is home to Ireland’s distinctly recognized Seawater Spa, where a day program will provide a welcome escape from the long days of sightseeing and crisp ocean air. And finally, you’ll want to make time to experience, The Warming Wagon sauna which pops up on the beaches of Cork and offers sauna goers an essential oil-infused session in between dips in the Celtic Sea. Their year-round event schedule is best found on their Facebook page.

For the foodies

Explore your culinary side with a visit to one of the most prestigious cookery schools in the world, Ballymaloe Cookery School. Alternatively, you could experience the smallest cookery school in the world, Skibbereen Island Cottage on Heir Island. Equally incredible, intimate and extraordinary. Also on Heir Island is the Firehouse Bread School where you can (when offered) take a class as well. If a cooking class is a bit ambitious for you, make time to instead sample the fare at The English Market, Ireland’s bustling and celebrated food hall. If you had to pick one thing to try make it Farmgate Cafe or Tom Durcan's spiced beef.

Not to overwhelm you, but I can’t forget O’Tuama Tours (June - Sept.), where you can enjoy time outdoors on a working dairy farm, and taste exceptional buffalo milk cheeses made by a renowned Irish Master Cheesemaker.

Near the Skibbereen, West Cork accommodation (listed above), and the cookery school on Heir Island is the village of Baltimore where you can depart on a sea safari of the southmost coastline in Ireland. This is the perfect opportunity to take it all in; sheer cliffs, secluded caves, signal towers, castles, dolphin, whales, and other ocean wildlife. It’s the perfect intersection of land and sea.

County Limerick 

For Sport

There are a number of traditional outdoor activities you can participate in to bring you closer to Ireland’s rich history. The first of which I suggest is Falconry on the grounds of Adare Manor, where you can also try your hand at Gundog Training, Archery, and golf. Country Limerick also offers access to Fly Fishing on the River Maigue, riding lessons at the Clonshire Equestrian Centre, as well as biking at Ballyhoura Trail riding. If you’re more of a spectator, consider catching a game of Munster Rugby at Thomond Park.

“Ballyhoura Trail Riding is really a must in County Limerick with miles and miles of amazing forests and mountains trails and ravines - just breathtaking and exhilarating!”

For Culture

Of all the counties in Ireland’s southwest, Limerick seemingly has the most to do within the city center. For instance, the Lough Gur Heritage Centre and stone circle, the Limerick City Gallery of Art and the Lime Tree Theatre. As well as the notable Hunt Museum, with curates artifacts and collectibles from the region’s rich cultural heritage. If it’s more history you’re after you can meander towards the river to ‘King’s Island’ in the heart of historic Limerick City where you can embrace what life was like in a medieval fortress with a tour of King John’s Castle.

If these offerings leave you craving the outdoor exploration outlined in other counties, consider Curraghchase Forest Park a conservation arboretum and woodlands area. Or the flora and fauna of the Lough Gur lake & heritage center.

Shop

With hesitation and a single caveat, the following “shops” are featured. These are more than just places to consider picking up something to take away with you. These are places you must also consider as part of your experience in Ireland.

County Clare

• The Burren Perfumery & Tea Rooms - This is a small shop run by a family of local staff. They handcraft perfumes and cosmetics inspired by the picturesque Irish landscape. Not only can you shop organic and specialty personal care and gift items, but there is a herb garden and a tea room bakery cafe. During the summer season, they lead mini sessions on perfume-, cream-, soap-making, and skincare. If you can’t make it there, they also sell their amazing products online and ship worldwide.

• Burren Smokehouse - Only 15 minutes from the Moher Cliffs, you can tour the Burren Smokehouse to see firsthand the mystery and secret to smoking salmon. You can also taste and buy freshly smoked organic salmon year-round in the visitor center.

County Kerry

You don’t want to miss Dingle, nestled in on a breathtaking peninsula on the edge of the Atlantic. It’s bursting with exceptional traditional music and local art & culture, and the Dingle shops are the best! Look for artist Carol Cronin and weaver Lisbeth Mulcahy, and be sure to visit both the Greenland Gallery and the Dingle Music Shop.

County Cork 

When you are up visiting the Blarney Stone, be sure to stop into Blarney Woolen Mills, which isn’t just a collection of wool sweaters (although those are incredible too) but also framed prints and Celtic jewelry from talented Irish makers.

In Cork City, it’s handicraft supplier Vibes and Scribes and West Cork’s Chalk & Easel; a beautifully curated homewares shop on Ballyspittle’s Main Street offering reed diffusers, baskets, and card-stock, among other delights.

In Kinsale, find leading Irish landscape photographer Giles Norman’s Gallery and Granny's Bottom Drawer, which is not for grannies, with its stylish cashmere knitwear, luxurious blankets, and Davina Lynch’s amazing hand-knit, feather-trimmed Aran hats.

And finally, if you are staying near Skibbereen or visiting the Inchydoney Island Lodge & Spa make a stop at the Old Mill Stores. This eclectic independent store sells designer interiors from classic and sophisticated to unusual and kitschy.

County Limerick

• Stacpoole Art and Antiquities, Adare - Bring home an authentic Irish antique from this eclectic shop in Adare. The owner, George is a highly respected collector of fine antiques, books and furniture from the 18th, 19th, & 20th centuries, as well as contemporary art. You can spend a long time browsing the treasures inside or you can gossip with the locals sipping coffee out back. In Andare, you’ll also want to pop across the street to check out Draiocht Art Gallery.

There is a lot to speak of when it comes to shopping in Limerick City, including Phillip Kenny Studio for unique gift kitchen and housewares. There is also Browsers Interiors, a beautiful shop full of bespoke furniture, and department store Brown Thomas, Ireland’s equivalent to Nordstrom and Irish retail favorite, Dunnes Stores.

“My go-to is totally underrated, Dunnes Stores at Jetlands, is like an upscale Super Target. Brilliant”

Devour

There is a real providence to the food of Ireland. Farm animals are grass-fed and people try to eat within as few food miles as possible. With a strong artisan food movement and plenty of organic produce available, restaurants celebrate this type of quality. However, I still recommend a guide to eat because your dining experience can be hit or miss whilst traveling around the country on the road. When in Ireland, try some of the classics--don’t miss a comforting bowl of velvety soup, seafood chowder, Irish lamb stew, or beef with Guinness over colcannon mash, a great fish and chips, brown bread and butter, scones with jam and cream, a full Irish breakfast, bacon and cabbage, and a perfect pint (or half pint) of stout! Here are some no-fail restaurants and cafés that I love.

County Clare 

• Linnane’s Lobster Bar - Right in the incredible Burren, they source local seafood and have the widest selection of Irish craft beer. What’s more Irish than that?

• Linnalla Ice Cream Cafe - After exploring the Burren, you’re going to want to reward yourself with Irish ice cream at Linnalla’s

• Vaughan’s Anchor Inn - Amidst all of the stunning scenery of the Burren and the Cliffs of Moher, you’ll find the fishing village of Liscannor and the Anchor Inn. The seafood-heavy menu features Galway Oysters by the dozen, traditional fish and chips, and fantastic seafood chowder.

• Wild Honey Inn - Even if you are not staying on property as suggested above, consider dining at their Michelin star pub.

• Roadside Tavern - Close to the Cliffs of Moher this gastropub has been a central meeting place for over a hundred years. They serve hearty lunches and a signature craft brew from their Burren Brewery.

• Father Ted Afternoon Tea - This is a really unique experience available by pre-booking only. You’ll enjoy an intimate, low-key afternoon tea inside the Glanquin Farmhouse, the personal home of the McCormack family; an organic farm but also the former location of popular mid-90s TV comedy Father Ted.

County Kerry

Seafood is the name of the game in Kerry. In fact, it’s so plentiful, even if you’re not looking for it, it will find you.

• Out of the Blue, Dingle - This is a seafood-only, fish bar, and shellfish deli. It offers a fun atmosphere right in the Harbour. The blackboard menu changes daily and if the fish aren’t biting there’s nothing on it. Like many restaurants, it’s not open in the winter but if you can grab a spot in the sun March - October, this place is a gem. Afterwards walk over to Murphy’s for a treat.

• Muphy’s Ice Cream, Dingle & Killarney - This place knows the key to making ice cream. They even use milk from a rare, indigenous breed of Kerry cow and they make their own sea salt from the Dingle sea water, need I say more?

• The Little Cheese Shop, Dingle - With all the charm there is to see in Dingle you’ll likely be in town and a bit peckish. This cheese and specialty food shop is where you want to pop in to sample and buy some impressive local cheeses.

• Fish Box, Dingle - If you are more than peckish, head to The Fish Box for their fresh-from-the-sea, all-fish menu. While there are plenty of fried options on the menu you’ll want to taste the ocean in their seafood chowder or Thai red monkfish and prawn curry.

• Spa Seafoods, Tralee - Between Ballybunnion and Killarney near the Dingle Penninsula you’ll find this hidden gem. The food is outstanding with a view and service to match. There is a seafood shop and deli on-site if you are staying in a nearby Banna Beach holiday home like Barrow House (mentioned above).

• The Boathouse Bistro, at Dromquinna Manor - This wine bar and casual bistro is near Kenmare and the Ring of Kerry. It’s historic, stylish, and waterfront. It also offers specialty seafood and an extensive gin menu, which makes it almost perfect.

• Limetree Restaurant, Kenmare - This modern and rustic restaurant sits inside the most beautiful old building and the accomplished Chef Patron creates a low-key farm-to-table atmosphere. Limetree offers iconic Irish fine dining, with a plethora of fish entrees, a handful of local meat dishes and a really long dessert menu.

• Tom Crean Fish & Wine, Kenmare - The seafood here is as fresh as it gets with local oysters and mussels sourced daily. The atmosphere is simple, with frequent live music, and don’t worry if seafood isn’t your thing, they have slow-roasted Irish pork, vegetarian pasta and a burger on the menu as well.

• Bricin Restaurant, Killarney - This authentic Celtic dining establishment offers traditional Irish fare and old-world charm. Order the Boxty, which is their signature potato pancake dish, and relax among cherished antiques and local families.

• Sol y Sombra, Killorglin - This quaint restaurant offers Spanish tapas in a remarkable old church setting. They have great wines to pair with fusion-style entrees that combine local ingredients with classic Spanish preparation. Think Irish lamb in a Tagine, or wild mushroom and Serrano ham croquettes.

• Kingdom 1795, Killorglin - A fabulous restaurant with impeccable attention to ingredients and a delicious combination of flavors. For many, this restaurant is recounted as the highlight of their trip to Ireland. It’s an exceptional example of coursed meals done and high-end service.

• Jack’s Coastguard Restaurant, Killorglin - literally sits inside a Coastguard station on the beaches of a fishing village. It’s just minutes off the Ring of Kerry and offers stunning sea views of McGillicuddy Reeks. The menu offers primarily the freshest of seafood in the most remarkable of settings.

• Quinlan & Cooke, Cahersiveen - Along the Ring of Kerry this place is a bit remote if you are not out on some spectacular adventure. This seafood restaurant is also a boutique hotel and sustainable Irish fish supplier. They use only the freshest, wild, local seafood in their sizzling Dingle Bay prawns, pan-seared baby squid, and crab bisque. Quinlan & Cooke is worth seeking out if just for the family’s famous smoked salmon.

County Cork 

If you are looking for highly rated, intimate, and high-end dining then County Cork has you covered.

• Cush Restaurant, Ballycotton - This seasonal 40-seater Irish restaurant is run by rising star chef Dan Guerin. It’s contemporary and picturesque, overlooking both the pier and the lighthouse. There is a traditional maritime Irish pub on site and the ingredients are largely locally sourced.

• Ballymaloe House, Shanagarry - Celebrated as one of the best places to experience farm-to-table eating in Ireland, this long-standing establishment offers un-assuming Irish hospitality. Recommended in the ‘stay’ section above, they have accommodation available onsite but should be on your list irrespective of if you are staying with them.

• Restaurant Chestnut, Ballydehob - This Michelin Star restaurant is tiny by design. It’s intended to feel like the chef is cooking just for you. The seasonal dishes are locally sourced and the result is spectacular. The set menus are creative while still being accessible.

• Pilgrims, Rosecarberry - Again with the Michelin-rated restaurants. This place is the epitome of charm. Their season menu is decided daily and locally sourced. The food is casual and they offer a lunch service.

• Dede at The Custom’s House - Chef-led, the thoughtful tasting menu is a unique way to experience local.

• St. Francis Provisions, Kinsale (Cork) - This tiny spot serves amazing in-season and locally produced dishes, organic wines, and delicious sandwiches.

• Fishy Fishy, Kinsale - This award-winning seafood restaurant is serious about fish, so fresh you could say it almost swims onto your plate. Locally caught Oysters, Lobster, and Monkfish appear regularly on the menu and there is ample indoor and outdoor space for seating on the harbor.

• Diva Boutique Bakery, Ballinspittle - This bakery cafe is owned by a wonderful American ex-pat from Seattle. Everything is baked in small batches and she knows what she’s doing, from lemon meringue tart to mince pie. Breakfast & Lunch only, deli onsite. I recommend the cinnamon buns.

County Limerick 

County Limerick & Adare

• The Mustard Seed - This long-established and celebrated restaurant is considered fine country house dining. The artisan menu comes from the kitchen’s use of the property’s orchard and herb gardens. The buzzy dining room is located inside the Echo Lodge, which is also recommended as a place to stay in the Limerick countryside.

• The Old Stand Restaurant & Bar - Located just off the Shannon Estuary coast road N69, The Old Stand in Shanagolden, County Limerick is a charming gastropub with a hearty menu and warm ambiance.

• 1826 Adare - You will no doubt have an excellent meal here. Reservations are highly sought after and the innovative menu impresses. Awarded as a Michelin Bib Gourmand restaurant this place has been rated for both quality and value.

• Sean Collins and Sons Pub - This comfortable old-style bar is known for its Irish pub fare. Located at the top of the main street in Adare, they have live traditional Irish music on Monday and Friday nights.

• Cafe Logr - An award-winning neighborhood cafe offering sensational, considered simple dishes, desserts & coffee prepared with locally sourced ingredients, served up with a heap of heart. Best gooey brownie and fermented pickles in the world.

• The Small Town Pizza Co. - Cheese is the hero here, and not a single combination you wouldn’t love.

Limerick City

• The Curragower - On the banks of the Shannon River, in the heart of Limerick’s Medieval Quarter this place is a gem. The food is absolutely delicious and the atmosphere is super comfortable. Head here for the best seafood chowder in Limerick city.

• The French Table - This bistro-style restaurant offers solid, hearty French cooking, a wonderful wine list, and lovely views of the River Shannon.

• The Milk Market - In the heart of Limerick, you’ll find the Milk Market, consisting of eateries, art stalls, specialty food stands, and market goods.

• Rifts Larder - This fine food store & soon to be deli is a fantastic place to find Irish staples, organic wine, and fresh fruit.

• Copia Green Cafe & Restaurant - While this cafe sits outside the city centre, in Castletroy it’s worth a visit if you are one to keep your clean eating diet on vacation as they serve the most delicious health-driven foods.

• La Cucina - with a second location in Castleto, this could be the best place for Italian in all of Ireland. It’s not fussy and everything is delicious. Make sure you go for the dirty fries and don’t wander too far from the pasta menu.

• Canteen - Brunch is the way to go at Canteen but their cafe is very comfortable no matter what you order. Their menu options change weekly and they offer a classic Irish take on many great breakfast items.

Sip

County Clare 

• Chapel Gate Distillery (JJ Corrie Whiskey) - Run by Louise McGuane, who grew up on the farm, Chapel Gate Distillery, “brought back the lost art of Irish Whiskey bonding.” You can visit, tour and taste in this modern Irish whisky distillery as of March 2020 and you should be able to book via their website. Their Whiskey Rackhouse is the only one of its kind in Ireland and they are part of the Irish Whiskey Trail, located on the Loop Head Peninsula, on the Wild Atlantic Way, in the most westerly point of County Clare.

County Kerry

• The best place to grab a pint will be at a pub in Dingle, of course. Be sure to check out Dick Mack’s complete with live music, local beer and fine whiskey; Kennedy’s Bar, with it’s great quirky atmosphere and friendly staff; As well as Foxy Johns on main street, an old style hardware shop and bar, exactly as you imagine all Irish pubs began. Another favorite is Killarney Brewing, for their small batch beer and Taproom, crispy wood fired pizza.

County Cork 

• Jameson Whiskey - In 1975 Jameson moved from Dublin to Middleton where they now offer tours and premium tastings. As a 240 year old distiller, this is the place if you want to experience all things Whiskey and sip the best.

County Limerick 

• For a very posh afternoon tea service consider The Gallery at The Adare Manor. Alternatively, at The Adare Manor try dinner at the Michelin Starred Oak Room, or if you prefer something a bit more casual, The Carriage House restaurant which is connected to the golf club.

• Oak & Apple - This small but chic boutique bar is part of the Good Room Cafe. They offer small plates to share (like beef croquettes or a bread board) and lots of great wine and cocktail options to pair with your afternoon in Adare.

• Neville’s Bar - This gem of a pub in Adare is worthy of the solid praise it receives. Off the beaten path for sure, you can eat a meal in the bar if you end up deciding to stay longer than expected at this cozy Inn.

• O'Shaughnessy's Pub, Glin, Ireland. - The quintessential Irish pub. What history and warmth here. You can see this pub and many other traditional Irish pubs in the brilliant award-winning documentary, The Irish Pub.

• Treaty City Brewery - this Limerick city establishment is actually Canadian so it’s no surprise it’s all about the beer.

• Rift Coffee - This small specialty coffee shop and wine bar is both cozy and tasty and they offer delightful sweet treats.

To make up a proper Irish coffee check out the McDonnell family tried + true recipe in the The Farmette Cookbook, complete with a gentle pour of cream over the back of a spoon and a sprinkling of warm raw brown or demerara sugar in the glass and on the top. For a smokey, peated flavour go for Connemara whiskey. If you’re more traditional try Teelings or my father-in-law's favourite, Crested Ten.

Take

Although you can count on rain at least once in the day for most of the year, it usually won’t stop you from getting out and enjoying the outdoors--just bring a “brolly,” and wear waterproofs and layers. In addition to all the basics, bring a Barbour waxed jacket, a comfortable swimsuit and a good pair of sunglasses, because when the sun is out, the sun is out! A DryRobe is another great item to have after jumping into the Atlantic or after a seaweed bath. They’re the best. And finally I suggest you rent a Wifi Candy device because many rural airbnb's won't have wifi.