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Where did you go?

Sicily

This was my first trip to Sicily and I was eager to explore the island without rushing myself too much. As a traveler, I like to focus on quality over quantity. I was scheduled to attend a work conference on the Southeast Coast in late April and decided to go a week early to see the sights and take pictures for my portfolio. I traveled through small towns along the North coast before traversing across the island to the Southeast.

I first landed in Palermo from a previous few days shaking off jet lag in Paris with friends. Afterward, I used Scopello, about 60 minutes Northwest of Palermo, as a home base for day trips to nearby sites. The village itself is minuscule but well-situated for exploring the Northwest region. From there I drove up the many switchbacks on the steep hillside the scenic, walled medieval town of Erice. The next day, I also spent the whole morning walking around the incredible ruins at Sagesta (Rtip: get there before 11:00 when the tour busses arrive and you'll have the place practically to yourself). My absolute favorite spot in the region was the unforgettable vistas of Riserva dello Zingaro, a national park just minutes from my pensione in Scopello.

Next, I drove across the northern edge of Sicily and settled in for two days in Cefalù, a well-preserved medieval town with a beach that is popular in the summertime. For variety's sake, I decided stay up the hillsides overlooking town, the rolling hills, and ocean. Though the steep drive up was full of hairpin turns, the views didn't disappoint and I was so glad to have experienced Cefalù from this particular vantage point.

Following my journeys across on the north end of Sicily, I made my way Southeast across the island to the Southern coast to the island of Ortigia, which is part of the larger city of Syracuse. Along the way I stopped in Castelbuono for a coffee and pastry at the renowned bakery Fiasconaro where I scored some unique Fisconaro + Dolce & Gabbana design collab tins. Once in Ortigia, I left my car in a parking lot and settled into a sweet little apartment for two days on the island. From there I explored the narrow streets on foot.

Following my weekend in Ortigia, I headed North along the Southern coast to return my car in Catania, the other major Sicilian airport. From there I took a bus (less than $10 for the 1.25 hour journey) up to Taormina for my three-day work conference.

Taormina is a cultural hotspot for good reason. The views, the shopping, the proximity to Mt. Etna, and the incredible ruins have secured it as a must-see destination since the 18th century when it was a part of a European socialite's "grand tour."

Fortunately, my conference included many opportunities to take in the charms of Taormina and its surroundings. We toured the Ancient Greek Theatre (3rd Century B.C.) at sunrise and visited the countryside west of town with wine and fresh ricotta tastings at a winery and sheep farm, respectively. The town of Taormina had the best shopping, from the small and handcrafted to the top-level luxury brands, of all my destinations in Sicily.

When did you visit?

Sicily is best for Spring, Summer, and Fall as many hotels are closed in the winter months. 

While I found Spring ideal, you can ski in Sicily in the Madonie mountains and Piano Provenzana and Nicolosi on Mt. Etna if you are looking for a novel winter vacation. I found that late April was an ideal time to explore the island because the weather was temperate and I was spared the crowds of summertime. On the Northwest coast, the wildflowers were in full bloom on the hills and roadsides, an unexpected delight I hadn't read about in the guidebooks.

Sicily is a large island (about the size of Massachusetts) with so many unique regions and charming towns that I wish somehow I could have stayed more than 10 days. I will definitely go back again to spend more time along the Southern Coast. I'm also interested in some of the smaller islands that can be reached by ferry service in the summer. The Aeolian islands are definitely a priority for next time.

How did you get there?

Palermo (Northwest) and Catania (Southeast) are the two main airports. Only a few European Cities fly there direct on a daily basis. Most flights are from Rome and take about an hour. You can also take a ferry across from Calabria (the "toe" of the boot) to Messina. Because I was traveling alone, I decided to forgo staying in a big city and instead rented a car. This allowed me to have the flexibility to see sights on my own timeline. Although driving in Sicily was a bit intimidating by reputation, I was so glad I made the decision to have my own transportation. In the course of my stay I traveled from the North coast to the South via car, which took about three hours on modern, major highways.

Where did you stay?

In Scopello,

Pensione Trachina

In the tiny village of Scopello I stayed at the charming Pensione Trachina. The rooms were super clean and a total steal at about $80 per night. The personable owner (an American married to an Italian) also offered a home cooked dinner for a reasonable charge.

In Cefalu,

B&B Donna Carolina

In Cefalu, I stayed up the hills at B&B Donna Carolina with incredible vistas overlooking the rolling hills and the Tyrrhenian Sea. Again a relative bargain, my luxurious room (about $150/night) came with a private patio to enjoy the view. The host was especially warm and helpful. And the elaborate breakfast spread embodied his heartfelt hospitality. Donna Carolina also has a lovely pool which would be incredible in the hot weather.

In Ortigia, 

Acquarello

On the island of Ortigia I stayed in a small, renovated apartment in the center of the island. Exploring was super easy, right out the front door.

In Taormina,

The Belmond Hotels

My conference in Taormina provided room options at two exceptional luxury hotels. Grand Hotel Timeo and Villa Sant'Andrea are sister Belmond properties located in two different spots in town. Hotel Timeo is high up, just steps from shopping and the Ancient Greek Theatre. Timeo also features jaw-dropping views of the ocean and Mt. Etna. Villa Sant'Andrea is more intimate on a secluded cove with a stone beach and access to the water. Free shuttles are provided between the two properties. They were both fabulous, top-notch hotels but I think next time I would prefer Timeo for the vista and proximity to the main sights. But if you wish to spend time swimming in the ocean or are seeking an escape from the hustle and bustle, Hotel Sant'Andrea is probably for you.

Rtip- Book directly through Ready & Roam at either of the Belmond properties and receive food & beverage credit, daily breakfast and early check-in.

What should we do?

Hiking in the national park Riserva Zingaro was among my favorite memories of the trip. I was unprepared for such stunning natural beauty, including spring wildflowers in bloom everywhere along the coast at that time (mid-April). I didn't end up hiking very much because I was so captivated by the scene that I stopped at one of the beautiful cove beaches and lingered there just to take it all in. The crystal clear water was pretty chilly (about 60 degrees) but the sun was warm and, hearty Minnesota girl that I am, I took a dip anyway!

I was also blown away by the ruins of Sagesta. As my Italian-born grandfather used to say, "The best Greek ruins are in Sicily." The lack of crowds first thing in the morning added to my magical impression of this peek of antiquity.

While in Taormina, I visited the vineyards that are an hour's drive from town. We had a wine tasting and lunch at the celebrated winery Cottonera with views of Mt. Etna. On the way, our tour guides took us to see a large mass of cooled lava from an eruption in 2018 (near Linguaglossa). And right in town was a vibrant scene of shopping and restaurants.

Where should we eat?

Two meals stand out from my trip. On my first night, La Tonnara in Castellammare del Golfo (between Palemo and Scopello) served me an ultra fresh crudo (raw) fish assortment. Combined with my entree of squid ink pasta, it was an unforgettable welcome-to-Sicily meal. Generally seafood is the pro move in Sicily but my B&B owner in Cefalu recommended dinner at B.I.F. (Braceria Italiana Fuorimondo), which had meat forward menu with a focus on quality local ingredients and cuts from their own butcher shop. I was so impressed that I went back the next day for lunch. Don't miss the tomato salad, Spaghetti Carbonara, Beef Tartar with mayonnaise, and the lamb chops. Everything I ate was truly outstanding!

"Generally seafood is the pro move in Sicily"

The pastries in Sicliy favor nuts like almond and pistachio. I adored the Amandorla, a soft, sweet cookie made with almond paste, widely available in bakeries and always delicious.

Be sure to take advantage of open air street markets. On Ortigia, I bought some amazing fresh strawberries, the small and intensely sweet kind you can't buy in a store. And don't forget to seek out sheep's milk ricotta, a specialty in Sicily. Slightly firmer, sweeter, and more delicate than the standard cow's milk version, it's a treat you won't forget and really can't get elsewhere.

Where should we drink?

The locals love it so great coffee can be procured almost anywhere in Sicily. If you want to order like a local just remember milk (cappucino, latte, etc) is strictly for morning beverages. Try your "cafe" with a dollop of rich sweet pistachio cream, a sweet nut butter similar to Nutella. I had two very memorable negronis and, no suprise, they both involved ocean vistas. In Ortigia, I watched the sunset and the afternoon amblers ("la passeggiata") at Sorelle a Mare on the western end of the Island. Later in Taormina, the outdoor patio/dining spaces at Hotel Grand Timeo vistas gave me that once-in-a-lifetime kind of feeling to go with my drink.

What is the one can't miss item on your itinerary?

Taormina is unmissable. It really has everything -- sights, food, history -- while still managing to feel quaint and not totally overrun.

What should we shop for, or bring back with us?

Hand painted ceramics are in heavy rotation here and soon you will recognize the unique and bright color palette and reoccurring motifs based on traditional crafts and century's old legends. Also the brand Ortigia Sicilia makes high quality soaps and fragrances that would be sophisticated souvenirs and gifts. And, though I didn't take time to go, I wonder if I missed out by not stopping at the Gucci outlet (it's in the "Sicilia Outlet Village” off the A19 on the road from Palermo to Ortigia).

Tell us something we don't know?

Syracuse was at one time the epicenter of the ancient world and in it's prime was even bigger than Athens.

What should we take on the trip?

Most of the pedestrian streets I experienced in Sicily were cobblestone so packing the right footwear is essential. I love my flats and sandals from Marion Parke, a foot surgeon that designs fashionable shoes with insoles made from medical grade materials. They aren't cushy but are supremely well made and supportive.

Since discovering the anti-chaffing, cooling undershorts from Thigh Society (the BEST! And they come in a range of colors and sizes up to 6XL), I've been packing one neutral dress and wearing it for both day and evening. Europeans are still more formal than Americans and will judge you by what you're wearing. I swear I got better service everywhere when I was a bit spiffed up in my dress (even though it was so comfy I probably could have played tennis in it). Similar look here.

My other travel favorite is the American Giant No-BS Jogger in super-black. The material is thicker than most and holds a nice formal shape while still being stretchy. These are a far cry from sloppy sweatpants and almost as comfortable.

Also on my essentials list is a pair of great sunglasses. Currently I am loving my Oliver Peoples (made in Italy!), high quality design from a company that sweats the details.

I don't go to any major city or tourist destination without this little bra wallet to keep cash and a credit card or two. The fabric is really soft and is a nice departure from the usual masculine-oriented travel gear! They also make a waist pouch version from

I was there in the spring and looking back at my pictures I often wore my ultra packable puffy vest that I picked up in Paris on my way to Italy. During the shoulder season, you will need warmer layers. Even during the hot summers, it will get cold as you go up in elevation towards Mt. Etna. Similar look here.

Tell us what you’d do differently next time?

I have no regrets about my itinerary but I think everything I was looking for in Sicily was right in and around Taormina. With limited time, that would be where I would send my friends and family. Next time I plan to not only spend time there but also the nearby Noto, which received raves from some of my well traveled friends who went there after the conference. Both locations were featured prominently in the second season of White Lotus.