Ready and Roam / Holbox, Mexico
Photo Credit: Jeff Johnson Photography
Plan
Best December- AprilEvery year we take the much-anticipated trip to Isla Holbox, what Condé Nast Traveler calls one of Mexico’s last secret beach towns. Our family of four took a non-stop flight on Delta Airlines from Minneapolis to Cancun. Cancun International Airport is small and easy to navigate. However, it can get a bit crowded so be prepared to wait in line to get through customs. Once you clear customs it is a quick walk outside to connect with ground transportation. If you have been here before you know this area is a bit of bottleneck, it is crowded with transportation companies coming and going. We coordinated our transport to Holbox through our hotel but you can also schedule direct. After a few minutes of searching through the crowd we found our driver holding a sign with our name. He quickly loaded us up in a van for the 2 hour ride to the Port of Chiquilá. In Chiquilá we were dropped off with our luggage at the ferry dock where you purchase tickets for the 20-30 min ferry ride to Holbox. The Fast Ferry travels to the island every ½ hour from 6:30am- 9:00pm so there is no need to buy tickets in advance. If you choose to use a company such as Transfer Holbox or VIP transport they will purchase these tickets as part of your package and save you the hassle. I strongly suggest you confirm a private transport and specify a van if you are more than 2 people. There are no cars allowed on the island. Once you arrive, a row of golf cart taxis will be waiting to take you and your luggage to your resort. The fares are cheap, expect to pay only a few dollars with tip. The ride is quick, it only take a few minutes to get everywhere on the island. Climb aboard, sit back and enjoy your first glimpse of Isla Holbox, its vibrant colors and sandy streets.
RTip: Take the earliest flight out so you arrive in Holbox in the daylight.
Learn
Holbox pronounced ‘Hol-bosh’ is about 26 miles in length and located two hours Northwest of Cancun in the Yucatan Peninsula. Holbox in Yucatec Maya translates to ‘Hoya Negra’ in Spanish, meaning ‘Black Hole’. It is thought that the Island was referred to as such because of its natural springs and shallow lagoon which was considered by the Mayans to be a fountain of youth. Holbox Island is said to have first been inhabited by eight Mayan families. It is now home to around 1,800 fortunate residents.
Stay
Palapas del Sol / reservations
We choose this quaint resort based on a recommendation from our children’s Spanish tutor, who travels to Holbox annually. We stay in room 13, which they now call the Penthouse. This room offers a main floor bedroom, a separate loft space for additional sleeping, a large common space and a lovely balcony, and an incredible view of the ocean. And yes, it was the perfect spot for reading and drifting off into afternoon naps. I do want to mention that there is an air conditioner in the bedroom on the main floor but no air in the rest of the space. Because the room is on the third floor there is a great breeze but the loft area gets a little toasty at night, even with the ceiling fan. We prefer the sound of ocean waves to the hum of an air conditioner so this was not an issue for us. The other rooms at the resort that I would suggest, if you do not want to scale the stairs to The Penthouse (they are a bit steep for little ones), take a look at the Double Queen or The Suite Superior. You really can’t go wrong at Palapas del Sol. This resort is relaxed, lovingly maintained and the staff treats you like family. There is a pool on the property that is perfect for a quick dip, but the real splendor is the beach. Soft white sand and calm, crystal blue waters. You can walk into the ocean over 100 yards and still only be waist deep.
Casa Las Tortugas / reservations
This impressive family-run, boutique hotel sits in a prime spot at the edge of town. Tortugas is doing an exceptional job with Covid cleaning standards. They offer daily meditation and yoga classes, an on-site spa and top-notch restaurants, the newest being a Japanese sushi bar. Casa Las Tortugas is credited for putting Isla Holbox on the map. Visitors began traveling here just to see this stunning property, where every last detail is exquisite. You can also book through Mr. & Mrs. Smith for a free bottle of wine on arrival. Only the beachfront room allows for a family of four.
Rtip: If you are traveling as a couple or with girlfriends, Ser Cassandra is in a fantastic location and caters to luxury travelers who might (no judgement) feel Holbox is a bit rustic for them. If you are traveling solo, looking for a long term stay, or on a tight budget, and you don’t need to be on the water, check out Hotel El Pueblito. That’s where I’d be if I were you.
Ready & Roam co-founder Regina Folken stayed most recently at Hotel Villa Flamingos and the whole family absolutely loved the property, with its Jenga stacked beach towels, prime sunset seating and quieter beach access. They booked the affordable “Vista Mar” and would recommend any of the waterfront options. Being positioned only 20m from the ocean with unobstructed sea views, really is the best choice. In fact, with just 40 suites on property, the only other room type that sleeps four people (on the sea) is the Bungalow Arena. Keep in mind this resort is one of the furthest from town, but it’s also one of the only properties in Holbox with direct beach access. Meaning, all of the hotels south of Flamingos are separated from the water by the public golf cart path. Wifi is available only in the lobby and at the pool area, so if that’s important to you then you’ll want to consult the property map. Wherever you are, you’ll want to take advantage of the drinks service and beach bar, where an all day tab will likely be less than $60.
Rtip: Aldea Kuka is walkable from Flamingos and it has a super cool vibe. Grab a drink, check out this other resort property and swing for a while.
Explore
“If you are looking for varied excursions or extreme adventure this isn’t really the place. The ocean and the beach are the crown jewel of Holbox” - Danielle Pahula
Stroll through the Main Square
This little island is easy to navigate as everything centers around the town square. Make sure to stroll through the park in the middle, where at night locals will play volleyball and kids will practice football. Simply browse the surrounding shops and vendors and if you get a chance, try a homemade crepe or street taco from one of the food carts. If you are there during the day you can escape the heat with a gelato from El Mangle Blanco or enjoy some fresh ceviche at Big Fish Holbox.
Rtip: Animal lovers should not miss Refugio Animal Holbox. A visit to the shelter will allow you an opportunity to play with, walk or bathe the dogs.
Shop for Souvenirs
You can find several lovely independent shops surrounding the main square and all around town. Most will sell some version of the many dream catchers you’ll find adorning the local restaurants. My favorites shops include, Hecho Con Amor, El Huacalito, Amour and Euforia, but there are many many more. Not all of them can be found on my maps (below) or even have websites to point you to, so if you are interested just ask directions. I am confident you will find plenty of tiendas when touring the town so enjoy.
Watch the Sunset
Spectacular sunsets and soft, rhythmic ocean sounds bring people together in the evening. Isla Holox sunsets are not only magnificent, but complimentary. You can catch the view from anywhere along playa Holbox but make sure to head to the The Pier at least once during your stay to watch the sun say goodnight with everyone else.
Rent a Bike / +52 1 984 212 5941
Head to one of the secluded beaches or bike through town and do a tour of the murals that adorn the buildings. These works of art are part of an initiative with the International Public Art Festival, a collaboration of artists around the globe. They are well worth a look! We rented our wheels from Bikes Holbox but most hotels offer complimentary bike rentals, or will point you in the direction of where to find them.
Walk along the Sandbars
When the tide is low a sandbar will appear off the main beach, making a perfect trail to the end of the island. One of our favorite past times on our trip was walking along the sandbars, collecting shells and looking for fish. On the far northeast side of the island you’ll find Punta Mosquito, a large sandbar where the sea life and flamingos have migrated. It’s a nice 45 minutes walk in the water.
Rtip: Some might suggest you make your way to Punta Coco on the southern tip of the island but we found this very disappointing. It’s pretty dumpy and the chairs for rent are in disrepair. If you’re going to check it out, be sure to check the tide before you go. Especially if you take a golf cart which can get you stuck in several multiple small ponds at the wrong time of day.
Rent a Golf Cart / +52 1 984 875 2049
Grab a map from your hotel and tour the far points of the island, or use it to transport tired kids back to your resort after a great dinner out. You can rent one by the hour, day or for your entire stay. We rented ours from Rentadora El Cachorro at the ferry pier for $17 an hour or $70 per day.
Enjoy some Fresh Fruit
La Calabaza y El is a small market about a block from the town square that has a great selection of fruit and will make you a fresh smoothie. We bought mangos and took them back to our resort where the chef at Papalas del Sol insisted on cutting them up for us and serving them Yucatan style- a little chili powder, salt and lime juice. Yum!
Horseback Riding
Los Potrillos offers horseback riding tours into the interior of the island, or along the beach and out to a remote lagoon. The bi-lingual guides are kind and knowledgable and the horses are both beautiful and well cared for. Although we don’t often choose horseback riding as an excursion, this was recommended to us by both locals and tourists on our return trip to the island. A hit with the whole family.
RTip: It is blazing hot during the day, if you are planning an excursion that is not in the water it is best to avoid the hottest part of the day. If you do venture out wear a hat and bring sunscreen and take plenty of water.
Devour
The restaurant at hotel Paplas del Sol provides a daily made to order breakfast with your stay, but is also open to the public. They have a little kitchen and dining room at the back of the property, with a fantastic staff who will whip you up anything your heart desires. After a week of trying all the breakfast options we settled on our favorite as, two eggs over easy, topped with sliced avocado, tomato, a dash of homemade hot sauce and a side of bacon. Kids choice? Homemade pancakes with Nutella or scrambled eggs with cheese. If you do not want to leave the hotel property in search of food during the day you can order lunch, snacks and dinner from the hotel, I suggest the shrimp enchiladas with salsa verde and the guacamole.
Sea Shell hunts along the beach was one of our family’s favorite early morning activities; taking a break from the hunt at the Mandarina Beach Club was another. The kids would order a “De La Playa” smoothie or fresh squeezed juice, we would enjoy coffee and admire our treasures. Because it’s located inside Casa Las Tortugas there is usually an off menu special for hotel guests like chilaquiles or a croque madame. You can enjoy it too, you just have to ask. We made reservations and returned for dinner one evening but take a peek at the menu before you go, it’s a bit expensive.
The NCAA tournament was on during our first trip and my boys really wanted lunch and a TV to watch a game. Finding good food was easy; however finding food and a TV in Holbox was not easy at all. Discovering Viva Zapata was one of those happy accidents. They serve a delicious Ojo Rojo, Sour Mezcal and an out of this world ceviche.
On a quiet corner at the edge of the town is Luuma. When we peeked inside the candlelit restaurant, I was not at all sure my family was prepared for what appeared to be a fancy dining experience. But the Luuma staff ushered us into an outdoor lounge that was as warm, inviting and lovely as the people who took care of us. We ordered the seafood platter, spring rolls and fish croquets. They are also known for their shrimp kebob, which is more of a sandwich than a skewer, and it’s just fantastic. If you aren't up for dinner or the place is packed (they don’t take reservations), stop in for a cocktail at the bar. And whatever you do, be sure to check out Luuma Le Bazaar a covetable high-end boutique within the restaurant.
Raices is a super casual restaurant on the beach with plastic chairs and tables planted on the sand. This was recommended by a couple we met at the resort; outstanding food but the wait can be lengthy. While our kids were busy in the pool, my husband walked down the beach and placed our order for a seafood platter. When we arrived an hour later, our meal was just about ready to eat. The service was exceptional and our meal was delicious and inexpensive. The tables on the beach was an ideal spot to watch the sunset and enjoy the catch of the day.
RTip: We bought snacks and water at one of the many mini-supers (referred to by locals) near the main square, and kept them in the small fridge in the room. You can also find a good wine selection at Yo Amo Mexico, just bring your own opener (and not in your carry-on).
This stylish and breezy spot is a wonderful place to start your evening, cocktail in hand. The bar’s high-end mixology is designed to combine house-made syrups, ethnic spices and local fruits. The starters are delicious, but small and pricy so the menu is not great for kids. Their exterior facing couches are nice spot to people watch and relax just after sunset.
This Argentinian-Italian restaurant is family run by artist Benjamin Campos Merida who also owns the Euforia boutique in town. The food is beyond exceptional, particularly the daily specials, the risotto and the empanadas. But the hero of the menu is the beef tenderloin, wood fired in a salt and red wine crust. It takes 3o minutes to prepare and large enough for sharing. Make sure you go early in your trip so you have time to enjoy it a second time. Tell them “Buddy” sent you.
Los Peleones / +52 984 120 9685
In the mood for pasta? Los Peleones has a kitschy, wrestling theme and rooftop overlooking the town square. They make homemade pasta, five daily specials and offer a good local beer selection. The beer is actually cold, and served in a cute can Koozie which we ended up purchasing to take with us. My husband pointed out that this is the first place in Holbox that served an honest-to-goodness cold beer. The Cilantro Mojito, is one of their specialties and it was excellent, not too sweet. Anything with the catch of the day is going to be a good bet. Oh, and if you have a 13 year old that cringes when mom and dad do something strange, take them up on a picture wearing their wrestling masks.
El Hornito Argentino / +52 81 8143 9020
If you are craving pizza and a quiet family night on your balcony, then pile into a golf cart and head into town for “take-away” from El Hornito Argentino. Their lobster wood-fired pizza is to die for, although it’s off menu, so you may have to ask about availability. If you estimate a pizza will serve 1-2 people, then you can also try their ham and pineapple which is equally delicious. Grab a bottle of Malbec at the market next door and head back to your room to eat, drink, and watch the sunset.
Rtip: Another good choice for pizza is Roots. They have a wonderful lobster version and an awesome cocktail called the Rootsito. Cash only.
Take
I would suggest you consider packing a lightweight dry bag to hold your belongings while you walk for miles in the water. You’ll want to bring more cash currency than you’d expect. Compared to other places in Mexico, Holbox seems to prefer pesos to USD and many restaurants only accept cash. You may also experience an occasional power outage, which means you’ll need to have enough cash in case access to an ATM is limited. It also costs about 15% more to take money out at a cash machine on the island. A flashlight or packable lantern is advised as it gets exceptionally dark at night. Holbox is super casual, so some fun flip flops, a lightweight dress, bug spray, lots of sunscreen, waterproof playing cards, and a wonderful book is all you need - linked here is the one I devoured on my recent trip.
Rearview
The three island tours you’ll see advertised is only “meh.” Next time we plan to take advantage of the calm ocean waters and rent paddle-boards or kayaks, expecially now that our kids are older.